Keith
Martin 55 Belmont Road, Twickenham TW2 5DA, U.K.
Cyprus has been well visited by birders and there is plenty of literature covering the main spots. The only cautionary note that I would add is that most birders descend on Cyprus for a few weeks in the spring, and much of the information relates to areas where migrants are likely to be encountered at that time of year. In September some of these locations were very quiet. Autumn migration appears to be less frantic and across a broader front, so the best strategy seemed to be to encounter it rather than look for it. The main locations, especially those with some water, were all worth visiting and we especially enjoyed Akotiri reed beds, the north coast of the Akamas and Akhna Reservoir.
The most controversial conservation issue on Cyprus is hunting, with certain days set aside for shooting and plenty evidence to suggest that outlawed hunting methods such as liming and netting of birds is still being carried out on a reasonable scale. I have to admit that we saw no evidence of any of this, but we were told that our visit coincided with one from European Union commissioners, and that everyone was on their best behaviour until they left. Although well visited by birders, there was a disappointing lack of conservation infrastructure, and most of the well-known locations were unmarked and allowed unrestricted access (from a birding perspective this was hardly a problem, but it was also indicative of limited conservation management). It would be good to see a future Cyprus where its importance as a migration through route was valued just as highly by the locals as by some visitors.
We used the following sources for information about Cyprus and its wildlife:
[1] The Birds of Cyprus, Peter Flint and Peter Stewart, B.O.U. Check-list No. 6 (Second Edition), British Ornithologist’s Union, 1992.
This is a wonderful book, not just for its bird notes but also for its excellent introductory section that includes notes on geography, vegetation and migration. Also has a condensed but helpful site guide at the back. A “must read” for anyone taking birding on Cyprus with any degree of seriousness.
[2] Collins Bird Guide, Killian Mullarney, Lars Svensson, Dan Zetterstrom, Peter J, Grant, Collins, 1999.
The field guide to European birds that you simply cannot afford to leave at home.
[3] A Birdwatching Guide to Cyprus, Arthur Stagg and Graham Hearl, Arlequin Press, 2001.
Quite a handy site guide with an annotated checklist at the back. A good introduction to the birding locations on the island and could be used instead of [1] for those not requiring too much detail on the island’s birds.
[4] Finding Birds in Cyprus, Dave Gosney, Gostours, 1996.
The quirky Gosney site guides are mainly useful for their accurate mud maps, which did bail us out on at least two occasions.
[5] Cyprus, Paul Hellander, Lonely Planet, 2000.
I have to say that this was the poorest Lonely Planet Guide that I have used. We may just have been unlucky, but several times we were caught out by wrong information concerning opening hours and access to archaeological sites. It was useful, but perhaps a revised version is just overdue.
[6] Insight Travel Map Cyprus, Insight Guides.
We bought this map in the U.K. and were very happy with it. It should be noted however that the Cyprus tourist agencies freely give away excellent large scale maps of most parts of the island, which we also used heavily. However this map was far superior to any of the overall island maps that they offered us.
Web sites:
http://www.fatbirder.com/links_geo/europe/cyprus.html
An excellent portal with links to trip reports and some Cyprus birding sites.
Bird common and scientific names follow [2]. Normally I prefer to follow the Collins Field Guide to Mammals of Britain and Europe (Macdonald and Barrett) for mammals, but as we saw only three mammals, and one was not in this guide, I have gone for the ad hoc method. In the absence of a reptile text I have relied on various web sites for common and scientific names. I will happily be corrected on any.
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Two birds seen skulking on the edge of the reeds on the fringes of one of the pools beneath the Asprokremnos Dam, and a further three at the western end of Akhna Reservoir.
Shag Phalacrocorax carbo
One rather sorry looking specimen on a rock off Pomos Point, and another two seen in the distance perched on rocks of Cape Arnaoutis.
Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
A flock of 20 in perfect V formation flew silently over our heads as we emerged from the eucalyptus plantations to the north of Akrotiri reedbeds. Another flock of around 12 birds were disturbed from the tops of the eucalypts of the seemingly abandoned Forest Beach campground to the east of Larnaca, and flew around the treetops in the heat of midday loudly protesting our arrival.
Squacco Heron Ardeola
ralloides
Three squaccos were stalking the shallows of the western end of Akhna Reservoir, fairly unperturbed by our sudden appearance at the southern shore. Surprisingly active birds, they tended to cover large areas in a fairly short time period.
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
A flock of 10 Little Egrets were observed on several occasions during our hike from thee Baths of Aphrodite to Cape Arnaoutis, firstly roosting on the edge of a small bay, and latterly feeding on the edge of the shore. Another flock of 12 birds were seen by the shore of Akhna Reservoir, and a lone bird was noticed off Paphos headland.
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Some fairly large movements of Grey Heron were observed off the north-west coast, with up to 30 birds seen on the eastern tip of Agios Georgios Island (offshore from Baths of Aphrodite) and a flock of 25 birds (including one Purple Heron) seen coasting out to sea early morning from Polis campground. Another 30 birds were present around the edges of Akhna Reservoir. A single bird was seen at Germasogeia Reservoir and two were observed at dusk from the balcony of a cafe on the Larnaca shorefront.
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Three birds noisily departed from the tops of the tall euclyptus trees around the Polis campground at dusk on our first night there, and two departed in similar style on the following night. One bird was seen offshore from Polis campground amidst a flock of Grey Herons.
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus
ruber
After noting that the Larnaca Salt Lake was dry as a bone on our arrival, we were surprised to discover on our last night in Cyprus that the Laranaca Airport pools (north) contained water. As we settled into a layby opposite the Tekke Mosque before catching our 04.30 flight we were stunned by the sight and sound of over 500 Greater Flamingoes right next to the roadside, actively sweeping the shallows for food, beautifully silhouetted against the backlit airport, and later a ghostly pink shadow across the pools as we entered the airport on the other side. A memorable end to the trip.
Teal Anas crecca
One female bird fluttering around the centre of Germasogeia Reservoir was the one and only recorded Teal.
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Three birds, one of which showed a lot of white on the lower neck, were flushed from the edge of Akhna Dam.
Garganey Anas querquedula
Regular parties of 30-50 ducks seen in the distance far offshore, rounding Cape Arnaoutis, were almost certainly this species, with the white wingbars only just visible. The same surely applies to a vast flock of birds seen even further offshore from Latsi (Lakki). This flock was seen swirling above the sea, splitting, merging and then apparently settling on the water before taking off and resltessly clouding tha air once again. The numbers were hard to assess, but I would estimate several thousand birds in total.
Marsh Harrier Circus
aeruginosus
One bird seen over Phassouri Reedbeds was at least flying over typical habitat. This could not be said of the two seen passing low over the Paphos campground, and even more surprising were the two seen out to sea off Laranka. Up to four birds were also present in the immdiate vicinity of Akhna Dam.
Pallid Harrier Circus
macrocourus
The steady procession of very rufous breasted “Ring-tailed” Harriers working their way over the Akrotiri Reedbeds, and seen over the dry salt lake, were assumed to be this species even though some birders claimed that at least one Montague’s was supposed to be around. The same applies to a “Ring-tail” seen coming in from the sea over Baths of Aphrodite. A distant pale harrier seen from the motorway east of Larnaca was also likely to have been a Pallid Harrier.
Common Buzzard Buteo
buteo
Certainly not common, but at least two noted being harrassed by several Eleonora’s Falcons to the east of Kensington Cliffs. Another lone bird was seen circling above Cape Greco.
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
An Osprey was a pleasant surprise at Akhna Reservoir, where it suddenly appeared in the middle of the morning and proceeded to hunt low over the water, hanging delicately in the breeze as it fished the northern shore.
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
A common and widespread species that was recorded from almost all habitats. Seen in fairly small numbers on a daily basis.
Eleonora’s Falcon Falco
eleonorae
A beautiful falcon that we enjoyed spectacular views of both above and on the cliffs next to Quarry Beach. Probably about 25 birds were seen at this site, and in the distance patrolling the eastern edge of Kensington Cliffs. The parrot-like cry of these birds was a constant echo around Quarry Beach, as was the impatient crying of young in the nest holes that were scattered high above us.
Chukar Alectoris chukar
A visible and fairly ubiquitous species that was seen and heard on most days and in most habitats. For example, eight birds taking off from the cliffs of the short nature trail at Germasogeia Reservoir, a bevvy of chuckling birds in the pine forest at Troodos, two at Stavros, three at Baths of Aphrodite etc. A regularly seen bird from the car, and often in semi-urban areas. Spectacular numbers were seen in the vicinity of Cape Greco, where they were even seen wandering around the roof of a military hut (careful with these binoculars now...).
Black Francolin Francolinus
francolinus
A fine piece of game that was locally common in the west of the island. Plentiful around the edges of the stubble and tobacco fields behind Polis campground, where they called from just after sunrise and were even observed running around the tall reeds within the camping area. We nearly ran three over at the entrance to Evretou Dam and had more fine views in the field next to Paphos campground, where again they were vociferous at breakfast time.
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
A Moorhen paddling furiously across the northern end of Evretou Reservoir was the only bird that we saw at this astonishingly quiet and bird-free location (sorry – apart from some Chukars of course). Another half a dozen were seen at Asprokremnos Dam pools.
Coot Fulica atra
Several Coot were observed on Akhna Reservoir, but otherwise the only bird seen was a lone example at Asprokremnos Dam pools.
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius
dubius
A flock of around 30, in varying states of plumage, were seen on a small mud flat at the south-west of Akhna Reservoir (in fact the count kept increasing as I started to adjust my eyes to their impressive camouflage, so there could well have been more).
Kentish Plover Charadrius
alexandrinus
Five birds huddling by the margins of the miserable amount of water left in the saline pools to the west of Lady’s Mile Beach were the only ones that we saw.
Spur-winged Plover Holopterus
spinosus
Great birds. Six Spur-winged Plovers were observed on the southern shore of Akhna Reservoir. Our best attempts to creep silently up to them only resulted in six Spur-winged Plovers being observed on the northern shore of Akhna Reservoir, but at least we had a nice view of them flying away (and the reservoir wasn’t very wide on this visit). Interestingly one bird was seen aggressively chasing an immature gallinule (unidentified) into the reeds.
Little Stint Calidris minuta
The only other occupants of the miserable pools by Lady’s Mile Beach were three Little Stints, which did not represent much bird biomass given the potential area of slightly damp mudflats available.
Common Snipe Gallinago
gallinago
We flushed a solitary bird twice from long grass at the southern edge of Akhna reservoir, where it tore off and succeeded in making itself suitably invisible on each occasion.
Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Two Greenshanks were present and fairly active in the south-western corner of Akhna reservoir.
Common Sandpiper Actitis
hypoleucus
The only place where Common Sandpiper was seen was along the shore near Cape Arnaoutis, where at least three birds were observed, steadily proceeding west towards the cape.
Audouin’s Gull Larus
audounii
Just one confirmed observation from the car of a lone gull flying along the coast a few kilometeres east of Polis. Several gulls standing out on a rock to the north of the fairly gull-less Cape Arnaoutis may well have been this species.
Yellow-legged Gull Larus
cachinnans
The regular gull of the west and south coasts, although never seen in big numbers. For example a few off Cape Drepano, several around Paphos harbour, and several seen offhsore from Paphos campground. Only around Larnaca, especially between the fishing shelter and the esplanade, were they fairly commonly observed.
White-winged Black Tern Chilidonias
leucopterus
Around 8 birds were patrolling the waters of Akhna Reservoir, which surprisingly represented the only sighting of terns during our time in Cypus.
Rock Dove Columba livia
Feral Pigeons were observed in several locations, but only the birds seen fairly regularly flying high above Quarry Beach and Kensington Cliffs looked like the genuine article.
Woodpigeon Columba palumbus
Not a particularly visible species. The only interior sighting was of a solitary bird seen flying across the road in the Paphos Forest on the main road down to Stavros. On the coast they were fairly numerous at Polis campground and around Baths of Aphrodite, but went unnoticed elsewhere.
Collared Dove Streptpelia
decaocta
Observed around Livadia (Larnaca), but on cunsulting my records I couldn’t find any other noted sightings, although my general impression was that we saw them in several other urban areas.
Scops Owl Otus scops
At least four birds were heard around the tall eucalyptus trees in Polis campground, calling at dusk. They were fairly mobile and several were observed in silhouette fluttering between trees, with one well seen when it came close to investigate a Petzl light. One bird was also heard calling at dusk, and during the night, at Stavros.
Pallid Swift Apus pallida
Most of the Pallid Swifts had apparently moved through, but a few were seen on the entrance road to Germasogeia Dam and another couple passing over a lookout point on the Kampos tou Livadiou trail near Troodos.
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
A refreshingly visible species that was seen in a variety of fresh and salt water environments. For example, one bird at Germasogeia Dam, one bird perched on the rocks on a headland of a small bay near Baths of Aprodite, and one bird flying along Larnaca beach front. Common at Akhna Reservoir, where three or four were actively fishing around the open shoreline.
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Small clouds of Bee-eaters were either heard or seen on most days, migrating across the island. They were most notable throughout the mountainous inland, which was often fairly birdless apart from the faint “prr prr” of Bee-eaters blowing in the wind. Occasionally flocks were noted on the wires and we nearly hit three birds that were pirhouetting their way over the pass between Odou and Farmakas. The largest flocks we saw were above the Akrotiri Reedbeds, where a seemingly endless supply of Bee-eaters poured out from the tall eucalyptus groves to the north.
Roller Coracias garrulus
Around eight migrating birds were seen perching on top of low scrub between Akrotiri Reedbeds and the salt lake. Despite high expectations, we did not record this species anywhere else during our visit.
Hoopoe Upupa epops
Three isolated sightings of lone birds were our only encounters with this wonderful species. The first was at great distance on the far shore of Germasogeia Reservoir. We then had a decent glimpse of a bird in the thick scrub just before the cultivated strip to the west of Baths of Aphrodite. We finally had good views of a third bird, hunting on the open northern shore of Akhna Reservoir.
Short-toed Lark Calandrella
brachydactyla
Several were seen in the low coastal vegetation during our hike into the Akamas from Baths of Aphrodite to Cape Arnaoutis. The first birds looked incredibly pale and ashy grey, but a bird seen coming into land from way offhsore looked yellow against the deep Mediterranean blue until a close hunt revealed it to be another Short-toed Lark.
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
The default lark throughout most low-lying parts of the island that we visited, and an oft-heard call. Particularly common at Akrotiri and around Akhna Dam, where they were seen scuttling across the northern shore rather like small flocks of quail.
Woodlark Lullula arborea
Just one definite sighting of a bird on the top of a forested ridge above Stavros, where it was quietly hunting from the pines at the forest margin. Another bird that was briefly seen behaving similarly at Troodos was first thought to be a Tree Pipit, but seems more likely to have also been this species.
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
A few noted around Akrotiri, but this was the prevalent species amidst the flocks of thousands of hirundines seen around Troodos and the surrounding passes, pouring across the island.
Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Fairly common in the hirundine flocks around Troodos, and possibly overlooked in other flocks in the higher parts of the interior.
Swallow Hirundo rustica
Although the Bee-eaters were impressive, and the large flocks of Grey Herons unusual, it was probably the biomass of swallows that were moving through Cyprus that were the most striking evidence of the significance of the island’s reputation as a migration gateway. Thousands upon thousands were seen, with peak numbers probably at Akrotiri. The coast around Paphos was particularly interesting, with steady streams of birds seen low above our heads as we took our morning swim just offshore from the campground.
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo
daurica
First seen above an embankment near Maroni, and then seen on several occasions (above Omodos for example), with the most notable flocks being the ones that formed towards dawn and dusk above the campground at Troodos, sweeping the sky above the pine forest.
House Martin Delichon urbica
Only seen in the lowlands amidst a small mixed hirundine flock near Maroni, but seen in reasonable numbers around Troodos, both above the campground and from several of the lookout points along the nature trails that lead out from the town.
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla
flava
One bird in the cultivated strip west of Baths of Aphrodite, and ten seen along the southern shore of Akhna Reservoir, all apparently of the race flava.
Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
Surprisingly the least recorded of the local endemic subspecies, with the lone bird in the bramble patch behind our tent in the Troodos campground proving well worthy of the hunt, since only one other Wren was seen, on the Kampos tou Livadiou nature trail to the north of Troodos.
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
Seemingly not that plentiful an autumn migrant, with one bird seen in the cultivated patch west of Baths of Aphrodite and another seen perched in the juniper scrub at Cape Greco.
Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina
Tough one! Several Isabelline Wheatears were seen well, but the bulk of the winter plumaged Isabelline/Northern Wheatears seen on a daily basis went unidentified. These birds were seen in small numbers at all coastal location, and even on the high ridges of the Troodos, but usually only seen as a retreating white rump.
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Several early sightings went mis-identified as Isabelline, until definite sightings at Kourion Stadium and the cultivated strip west of Baths of Aphrodite alerted me to the heavy presence of this species on the island in September.
Cyprus Pied Wheatear Oenanthe
cypriaca
A lovely bird with which we became increasingly familiar as we journeyed through the various island habitats, encountering this species wherever we went. A regular “wire” bird, as well as the odds on favourite when a bird was flushed at the side of the road. The only species noted on our long winding afternoon drive from Stavros to Pomos, through the extensive plantations of the northern Paphos Forest. After a few half-hearted attempts, one finally yielded to my camera on the beach next to the Paphos campground, to present me with what is surely the most apt and vivid souvenir of any non-winter birding experience on Cyprus.
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
Several sightings were made of this species, perched prominently high above the trail on the large rocky cliff top promontory just north of Cape Greco on our last afternoon.
Blackbird Turdus merula
Unusually rare on Cyprus, where our only encounter was of familiar alarm calls and then a glimpse of a male perched mid way up a Troodos Pine, on the trail from Troodos out to Makrya Kontaka.
Cetti’s Warbler Cettia
cetti
Almost certainly overlooked, as it is apparently a locally common resident. The only definite sightings were made around Polis campground, where several were heard in the reeds around the west of the camping area, as well as by the beach. A particularly noisy bird called at dusk just outside our tent, and was sighted at much inconvenience to the dinner preparation. Another probable Cetti’s Warbler was seen in the reeds on the northern shore of Akhna Reservoir.
Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola
juncidis
Fairly common in suitable habitat, although nowhere nearly as visible as they presumably are during the breeding season. Some very good close sightings were enjoyed in the stubble field east of Paphos campground and in the reeds on the northern side of Akhna Reservoir.
Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus
schoenobaenus
Just one bird seen hunting low among the sparse reeds close to the edge of one of the pools beneath Asprokremnos Dam was assumed to be a lone migrant heading to warmer winter climes.
Reed Warbler Acrocephalus
scirpaceus
The same story as above applies to the solitary bird seen hunting in the taller reeds by the edge of the same pool as the Sedge Warbler. Neither species were noted in any of the more extensive reed beds visited, such as Akrotiri and Akhna.
Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais
pallida
The large warbler most commonly seen in wooded areas on the south coast, such as the tall shrubs along the nature trail at Germasogeia Reservoir, the eucalyptus groves near Phassouri, the fruit trees in Paphos campground and the juniper scrub at cape Greco. Two very yellow looking hippolais warblers seen near Maroni and by the shore of Akhna Reservoir may well have also been this species, although the jury has had to remain out.
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia
conspicillata
Several were seen perched on top of the low scrub between Akrotiri salt lake and Akrotiri reed beds (pretty much to the arrow on the mud map in Gosney’s birding guide to Cyprus) and one was seen in the low scrub half way up the rocky cliff top promontory north of cape Greco. Probably not at their plumage best in September, but they all count!
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia
melanocephala
Common on our coastal walk west from Baths of Aphrodite along the northern edge of the Akamas, but elsewhere recorded just the once, when a bird perched prominently up in the scrub behind Kourion Stadium.
Cyprus Warbler Sylvia
melanothorax
In our experience, don’t get too complacent about finding this Cyprus speciality in early September! We had good sightings of this species in just one location – the dense low scrub behind Kourion Stadium. It is fair to acknowledge that we did not hunt hard at the right times of day, and that in this area (particularly in the scrub at the top of the cliffs above Quarry Beach) we had many glimpses of tiny sylvia warblers plunging deep into impenetrable thickets (although note that Sardinian Warblers were present in this area). All observed sylvias in the region of Baths of Aphrodite were also Sardinian. Oh well – it’s a messy looking bird anyway, I don’t care!
Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia
curruca
Very common in the scrub along the nature trail at Germasogeia Dam, and fairly common in the pine forest at Troodos campground, but apart from these two passage migrant “falls” was not recorded at any other location.
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
Another migrant that was fairly common in the pine forest at Troodos campground, with another seen out on the nature trail to Makrya Kontaka the next morning. The only other sighting was of one bird in an oak gully on a steep forested slope above Stavros.
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus
trochilus
Did we really have to journey four hours in an aeroplane to see so many of these? The most commonly observed passage warbler, with good numbers seen around Troodos, Stavros and Cape Greco.
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa
striata
Seen at a number of forested locations, although always in small numbers except on the Kampos tou Livadiou trail north of Troodos where they were common. Other records came from, for example, around Troodos, Stavros, Phassouri and Cape Greco.
Coal Tit Parus ater
The Cyprus subspecies of Coal Tit is noticeably dusky brown, and was very common in the highlands around both Troodos and Stavros. On the Kampos tou Livadiou trail (north of Troodos) an amount of indiscrete “pishing” resulted in up to 15 Coal Tits coming close in to acknowledge the harassment.
Great Tit Parus major
The only tit (sic) seen in the lowlands, where they seem to have developed a fondness for eucalyptus plantations. Common in this habitat at both Akrotiri and around Polis campground. Other birds were seen at Troodos, Stavros and Paphos campground.
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia
brachydactyla
Another of the Cyprus endemic subspecies that was fairly common in the highland habitats around Troodos and Stavros. Very good views were enjoyed in the trees next to our tent in Troodos campground, and also low in a golden oak above Stavros.
Golden Oriole Oriolus
oriolus
Around ten “dull” plumaged birds were seen flying around the Akrotiri area, where the yellow rump was all that gave them away as they shot over the tops of the eucalytpus trees.
Red-backed Shrike Lanius
collurio
Several sightings were made, mainly of immature birds. One in a flock of Lesser Grey Shrikes near Maroni, one at Akrotiri, two near Baths of Aphrodite, one on the wires at Pomos Point and another on the wires next to Paphos campground. The birds near Baths of Aphrodite (one was the only full plumaged male that we saw) were perched up on a low bush as we hiked out in the morning and of course were still pegged there in the late afternoon when we returned.
Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius
minor
Around eight birds were observed perched on irrigation poles in a cultivated field south of Maroni on our first day, calling out to one another. Also noted to be fairly common at Akrotiri, particularly in the vicinity of Akrotiri reed beds, but not seen elesewhere.
Masked Shrike Lanius
nubicus
I was increasingly concerned that a bird seen in passing, perched high on a roadside pole, on our first day near Choirokoitia would be our only sighting of this distinctively shaped species. They had apparently moved out of the mountainous interior and were not seen anywhere around Troodos or Paphos Forest. However we finally found another one in the field behind Pomos Point. A small elusive shrike that was flying around the campground at Paphos every time I went to the shower block (without binoculars) was very likely to have been this species (there is a lesson there somewhere..).
Jay Garrulus glandarius
Probably the second most visible of the Cyprus endemic subspecies, but like the others a rather dusky and somewhat messy looking version of the more familiar west European subspecies. Tended to be the only large bird regularly seen in the pine forests of Troodos and Paphos Forest. Particularly tame in the Troodos campground where they regularly raided our picnic table.
Magpie Pica pica
A regularly seen bird at lower elevations, although never in large numbers. More commonly seen by the roadside than at specific sites visited, but recorded for example in the suburbs of Larnaca, Polis campground, Germasogeia Dam and Akhna Dam.
Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Interestingly a communal coloniser of cliffs in Cyprus. We saw a sizeable colony on the cliffs to the west of Germasogeia Dam, and another smaller colony beneath the main Kourion architectural site. The only other sighting was of a small flock in flight on the road from Polis to Baths of Aphrodite.
Hooded Crow Corvus corone
A common bird throughout the lowlands and coastal areas, although not noted in the hills at any locations.
House Sparrow Passer
domesticus
Inevitably one of the first birds seen on Cyprus, where they were to be found in all the expected locations. Absolutely abundant in the beautiful gardens of our Episkopi lodgings and one of the commonest birds in the agricultural country. We didn’t note the presence of any Spanish Sparrows, and may well have overlooked them amongst the plethora of Passer domesticus.
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
A common species throughout the elevated pine forests in the interior, and probably the most common species around the settled areas such as Troodos and Stavros. Not, however, recorded at any of the lower elevations and seemingly absent from the coastal plains.
Serin Serinus serinus
Not at all as common as expected, with a couple of birds flushed from the side of the road outside Troodos one morning, and several seen near the pools beneath Asprokremnos Dam.
Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Another bird that was seen a lot less than expected, despite providing one of our first bird records from the suburbs of Larnaca. In fact the only other notable sighting was of a small flock in the scrub to the west of Baths of Aphrodite.
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Despite the omnipresence of thistles and teasels we did not see that many Goldfinches on our travels, again despite an early encounter with a dishevelled specimen near Maroni. Only at Akhna Dam were they very common with several largish flocks present around the southern shore.
Common Crossbill Loxia
curvirostra
In the end this proved to be the hardest of the local endemic subspecies to locate, despite the abundance of suitable habitat in the interior. We didn’t have any luck around Troodos campground, town or the nature trail out to Makyra Kontaka. However we finally scored on the Kampos tou Livadiou trail, where the presence of a few trees with fresher cones led to an encounter with a small flock of six birds.
Moufflon Ovius
orientalis
Despite information that Moufflon were rare in the Paphos Forest, we definitely had a wild encounter with two large examples who stole down to the Stavros forest campground in the middle of the night for a drink in the stream. As I was exiting the tent for a midnight leak I started them and they stood magnificently backlit by the distant forest station lights before plunging noisily into the forest and crashing up the side of the gully. Another somewhat more docile and semi-tame female was happily lying next to the road close to the Stavros cafe the next morning, and was a good deal tamer than those in the breeding enclosure above the forest station. They are “common” around Stavros according to the rangers, presumably partly as a result of a succesful local breeding and release program.
Feral Goat Capra hircus
Several small herds of goats were seen on the Akamas, high on the headland to the west of Baths of Aphrodite and in the coastal scrub closer to Cape Arnaoutis, although to what extent these animals were “wild” was rather hard to ascertain.
Egyptian Fruit Bat Rousettus aegyptiacus
Large bats that were noted flying into a fruiting tree in the centre of Episkopi caused great research confusion when the Collins Guide failed to record any fruit bats on its European list. However a subsequent search on the Internet has revealed that this species is a breeding resident on Cyprus, and so this is undoubtedly what they were. I know a fruit bat when I see one!
Cyprus is a haven for reptiles, with lizards seen at almost all locations. In fact our knowledge of these would have been impoverished without a visit to “Snake George’s Reptile Park”, where the man himself gave us a lesson on the local fauna.
The local iguana, or “dragon” was observed at most locations, appearing in a wide range of shapes and sizes, being particularly common at the ruins of the Temple of Aphrodite where there appeared to be one around every corner. Snake George called this beast a “hardun”, but I can’t find other references to this name.
A fairly sturdy looking skink that we first saw on the Akamas, but that was particularly common at many of the archaeological sites on the west of the island, notably at the Tombs of the Kings near Paphos.
Spiny-footed Lizard Acanthodactylus
schreiberi
A cute little skink with a curling red tail that was abundant at many of the archaeological sites, and a challenging photography target due to its incredible pace. Again, Tombs of the Kings and the Paphos Mosaics were top spots for this species.
Snake-eyed Lizard Ophisops
elegans
A fairly non-descript brown skink with a venral stripe that seemed to be abundant in the mountains – particularly around Stavros in the Paphos Forest.
We didn’t see as many geckos as expected, but the one place where they regularly performed was in the shower block at Paphos campground.
One of these big black snakes was seen winding its way into the undergrowth close to the pools beneath Asprokremnos Dam. Apparently this is a harmless snake and by far the commonest snake on the island.
We were disturbed one evening by a large spotted frog with striped legs, which hopped out of the reeds next to out tent in Polis campground, and launched itself off into the night in a series of impressive leaps.