Bird and mammal list from trip to Bolivia 

3-22 August 2005

Birds
Mammals

BIRDS

Greater Rhea Rhea americana

An iconic bird of the pampas that we were rather lucky to spot just west of Santa Rosa on the way from Rurrenabaque to Caracoles. Around half a dozen rheas were stalking the grassland and only slowly moved off after we stopped the jeep to watch them more closely. They were safer birds to count than the one that was wandering about the grounds of the Hotel Safari, Rurrenabaque.

Great Tinamou Tinamus major

One good view of this species at Chalalan along the trail to the landing stage. Sandro’s keen eyes picked it up perched about two meters off the ground in fading light. When we passed the same spot in the dark the next morning we flicked the torches on and it was still there. The tremulous call of this tinamou was also heard at Villa Tunari.

Cinereous Tinamou Crypturellus cinereus

Just a few minutes before our Great Tinamou sighting we heard the very strong short piping of this species frustratingly close to the track. Despite all best attempts to talk back the bird remained sufficiently far into the dense undergrowth of the forest that all notions of chasing it were cast aside.

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui

A truly invisible tinamou, as it has been on all my trips into tinamou country. The haunting rising whistle was one of the first forest noises heard on our nocturnal morning hikes. A species that calls well before the coming of the dawn.

Brown Tinamou Crypturellus obsoletus

A tinamou seen ahead on the track that follows the western shore of Lake Chalalan was confidently identified by Sandro as this species. I have to confess that I am relying on his knowledge of his local patch as I could not narrow it down beyond being a plain mid-sized crypturellus (Brown, Cinereous or Undulated).

Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa

The very distinctive call of this species was heard at first light on the grassy plain behind Caracoles Lodge. It starts with some slow hesitant high-pitched piping and then gradually accelerates while descending, ending almost in a low trill. It’s a small tinamou though… smaller than the grass in which it hides.

Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus

A classical Amazonian sound. The steady loud descending four hoot call of this tinamou was heard at Villa Tunari, Chalalan and most closely at Los Volcanes. How such a loud bird can be so invisible beats me, but that’s tinamous for you.

Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens

Now this is more my idea of a tinamou. Easily heard, but also possible to observe. Or perhaps it is just that you have to go to the right sort of place. Kim’s Golf Course just outside Santa Cruz is the right sort of place. Unkempt rank grassland is plentiful, but so are neat fairways – the perfect place to see travelling tinamous. We heard plenty there and saw two, although they took some hunting amongst the grazing herds of Burrowing Owls.

White-bellied Nothura Nothura boraquira

Another invisible bird that, judging by the background level of high-pitched whistling, is a common species in the grasslands of Lomas de Arena near Santa Cruz.

Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata

Strange arboreal birds that were fairly easily seen in river-edge forest on the way to Chalalan (and at Chalalan). Our closest views were from the dugouts on the Río Yacuma around Caracoles, where they were seen daily.

Spix’s Guan Penelope jacquacu

A bigger version of the chachalaca that we recorded in almost every lowland habitat that we visited. The most interesting encounters were around the Victoria Resort Hotel, Villa Tunari, where we were serenaded by their romantic vomiting calls shortly after breakfast. We also saw one in magnificent flight near the salt lick, looking only a few stages in evolutionary advance of a pterodactyl. Spix’s Guan was commonly heard in the forests of Chalalan.

Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis

This is a very fine member of the cracidae family, eccentric not only in its dark plumage, white cap and blue throat pouch, but also in its amazing call. This is made by the shaking the wings and was often heard just before daybreak, sounding a bit like an electric motor. A “bonkers” species that gets my full appreciation and one that was common around Chalalan.

Razor-billed Curassow Mitu tuberose

Someone suggested to us that we would see curassows if we were very lucky, but we found them to be ten-a-penny. Well maybe that is a slight exaggeration… We saw our first from the boat in on the way in to Chalalan and then another at the swamp in Chalalan. Sandro saw yet another the next day very close to the lodge. However we saved up our best encounter for the Río Yacuma near Caracoles Lodge. Two curassows had come down to the edge of the river to feed and they casually strolled along the muddy margins before flying in front of our boat and then scuttling up the bank. You don’t get better views than that.

Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta

Sometimes you come across a bird that is simply indescribable within the boundaries of past experience. The two Horned Screamers resident at the Chalalan swamp were probably my candidates for birds of the trip. They are just bizarre birds. The look like,, umm.. umm.. that’s my point really. Almost bustard like, except they live in wetlands. Bulky birds that look terrestrial, except that we only ever saw them perched on top of trees. A bird of that size should really be silent, but these ones called with such ferocity that they could be heard kilometres away. And then there is that bizarre quill that pokes from their forehead…

Southern Screamer Chauna torquata

Another bizarre species, but probably slightly more mundane than the previous one. Almost resembling a cross between a grey long-necked crested goose and a vulture, we saw these on a couple of occasions in the pampas close to the Río Yacuma near Caracoles. On the first occasion they were first heard but we had to manoeuvre the boat back and forth and engage in an amount of neck straining before two birds were seen in a distant tree. We had clearer views the next day. Interestingly John’s digital photo processing revealed the previously unknown fact that he had seen one at Lomas de Arena (or rather he had photographed one) without working out what it was at the time!

Orinoco Goose Neochen jubuta

An attractive orange and white goose that was seen on several occasions in groups of two of three on sandbars on the journey along the Río Beni and Río Tuichi from Rurrenabaque to Chalalan.

Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata

One lone bird was seen on Laguna Volcanes and a flock of a dozen was noted in one of the many flooded lagoons off the road between Santa Rosa and Reyes on our way back to Rurrenabaque .

Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis

Somehow the name suggests a teal with flair, colour and a bit of attitude. Alas this is a very drab duck. Around ten were patrolling the waters of the lagoon at the Lomas de Arena dune system and four were seen along one of the creeks at Kim’s Golf Course, Santa Cruz.

Yellow-billed (Brown) Pintail Anas georgica

A classic high altitude duck that we surprisingly only saw well once on Lake Titicaca. However we did not have the chance to study the best birding areas of the La Paz side of the lake and I would expect this species to be fairly common there.

Puna Teal Anas puna

In contrast to Brazilian Teal, the dull sounding Puna Teal is actually a very attractive teal with an azure blue bill and white face beneath a striking dark cap. Several birds were seen on Lake Titicaca and it was the commonest duck that we saw there (not that our sample size was particularly significant).

Masked Duck Oxyura dominica

A very small oxyura duck that we saw on Laguna Volcanes. Aidan commented that this may be an endangered species in Bolivia, but I cannot find any information about that.

Ruddy (Andean) Duck Oxyura jamaicensis

I assume that the alternative name suggests that the subspecies in this part of America was once thought of as a distinct species. We only saw Ruddy Duck once on Lake Titicaca at the only productive reedy headland that our catamaran passed within good range of.

Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus

Laguna Volcanes is not an enormous area of fresh water. Nonetheless it supported an astonishing population of diminutive Least Grebes as they covered the surface of the water. In contrast Lake Chalalan, a similarly sized lake in Amazonia sported a couple at most. A couple of birds were also seen on the lake in the Jardín Botánico Municipal, Santa Cruz.

Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps

Only recorded at the essential birding stop near Santa Cruz, Kim’s Golf Course, where a couple of grebes were spotted on the lagoon at the far end of the course, right next to where a couple of non-grebes had their afternoon bathing nuptials spoiled by the unexpected arrival of a telescope and several sets of binoculars.

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia Rolland

A handsome small grebe, resembling a darker version of a Black-necked Grebe. We only saw one bird at the Transturin catamaran base on Lake Titicaca, where the white tuft glowed in the early morning sunshine out on the mirror surface of the lake.

Short-winged Grebe Rollandia microptera

The largest grebe at Lake Titicaca and of significant interest as it is flightless and endemic to this lake and one other at similar altitude. A couple of birds were seen from our catamaran as we cruised back down the lake in the late afternoon.

Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis

A small grebe (in fact seemingly no larger than the Least Grebe) with a white neck and throat that we saw on several occasions during our Titicaca cruise.

Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus

The one and only cormorant of the region. Noted on our first birding outing at the Jardín Botánico Municipal, Santa Cruz and seen in all the expected locations. Most commonly observed on the long boat journeys along the Río Beni and Río Tuichi in and out of Chalalan. Surprisingly not seen at Lake Titicaca.

Anhinga Anhinga anhinga

A species that never allows itself to be taken for granted. A couple of birds were active around Lake Chalalan and often observed in flight or on surprisingly high perches above the lake. Surprisingly only seen once on the boat trips between Rurrenabaque and Chalalan. More common along the Río Yacuma at Caracoles and seen in front of our boat one afternoon “doing the snake neck thing”.

Rufescent Tiger Heron Tigrisoma lineatum

A beautiful heron that was pleasingly common and abiding in the waters along the Río Yacuma (Caracoles). While the adults have a stunning thick rufous neck it is the immature birds that actually have the “tiger” plumage. One adult quietly fished from the boat landing area at the lodge. This was probably also the species that launched itself from cover at dusk and flew across Lake Chalalan.

Fasciated Tiger Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum

A drabber and slightly smaller version of the previous species that we only saw once, hunting amidst the boulders at the edge of the fast-flowing river near the Oilbird Caves in Carrasco National Park.

Agami Heron Agamia agami

This secretive heron was seen perched low in a tree close to a small forest stream not far from the swamp at Chalalan. Although the bird was immature there was no mistaking the crouched forward posture of this Amazonian heron.

Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius

Just a couple of boat-bills were seen on this trip, both downstream from Caracoles Lodge in the pampas, hiding in the riparian vegetation along the Río Yacuma (as much as you can with an appendage of that size).

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

At least a couple of birds (mainly immature) were flushed on each boat trip along the Río Yacuma from Caracoles Lodge. The broadest winged and stockiest of the herons in the pampas.

Striated Heron Butorides striatus

Although the commonest heron in the pampas and regularly seen scuttling for cover along the banks of the Río Yacuma by Caracoles Lodge, this species was nowhere near as common as on my previous neotropical trips.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

This is such a ubiquitous world bird that my memory treats them akin to Feral Pigeons and I am left struggling to recall encounters with them in Bolivia. I can definitely recall seeing flocks at dusk flying by the roadside west of Villa Tunari, but we surely saw them more often than that.

Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi

This big white version of the familiar Grey Heron was first seen mid-stream at the bottom of the Chapare road. However it was to become gradually more common as our trip proceeded, with several on the Chalalan boat trips along the Río Beni and Río Tuichi and many along the Río Yacuma in the pampas around Caracoles.

Great Egret Ardea alba

Nowhere common on our travels. One bird was seen overhead at Lomas de Arena and several seen on the boat trips in to Chalalan from Rurrenabaque.

Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix

A grassland heron whose unusual blue and orange plumage makes this the most stunning of Bolivian herons. Our windy walk into the swirling sands of Lomas de Arena was made worthwhile by good views of several of these herons amidst the dunes. Those who missed out had another chance at Caracoles where we saw some from the dyke on our morning walk.

Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus

If Whistling Herons are the most striking of the Bolivian offering, then Capped Herons are definitely the most delicate. A smallish white heron with blue bill and visible plume, this delightful species was seen on each journey along the Río Beni and Río Tuichi in and out of Chalalan. Also seen along the Río Yacuma at Caracoles.

Snowy Egret Egretta thula

The commonest egret and seen on all our river trips. At sunset we saw several flocks flying upstream from Rurrenabaque, the sun glinting of their backs and their yellow feet glowing in the late light. One bird was also seen at the Santa Cruz Jardin Zoologico (definitely outside a cage).

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea

Only one bird was seen on the whole trip, standing on one of the many river islands on the way from Rurrenabaque to Chalalan.

Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi

We hotly debated whether a flock of formation flying glossy black birds at Copacabana on Lake Titicaca were ibises or cormorants. However no such debate was necessary for the gathering flocks of Puna Ibis that assembled in the fields at the end of the lake at dusk, seen from the minibus on our way back to La Paz.

Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis

A lone ibis in the Jardín Botánico Municipal, Santa Cruz surprisingly proved to be this dark species. Several were also seen along the Río Beni and Río Tuichi on the way to Chalalan and whiling away the heat of one afternoon in the small swamp behind Caracoles Lodge.

Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus

There were several claims on this species at various points on the trip but the only definite sighing for me was a flock of 20 that flew over the grasslands behind Caracoles Lodge on our early morning walk. The red legs and yellow bills were quite definitive.

Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens

A large and rather beige looking ibis with a long notable crest that we saw several times in the pampas around Caracoles Lodge. This is quite an imposing ibis and much more beautiful in the telescope than a first glance suggested.

Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus

Another big bruiser of an ibis that was put up to flight when we landed our boat in the pampas to bale out the copious amounts of water that were sloshing about in the gunnels. I suspect that a very large ibis glimpsed flying over Lomas de Arena was probably also this species.

Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja

These visions in pink were regularly seen in flight high above the pampas. We were fortunate enough to find some perched atop a tree during our big walk at Caracoles, offering much more prolonged views of their vibrant colours.

Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari

The closest that neotropical storks come to looking like the White Stork, mainly differing by having a yellow rather than red bill. Fairly common around Caracoles and the pampas in general, with flocks of substantial numbers seen spiralling the thermals.

Jabiru Jabiru mycteria

The condor of the storks. We saw several in flight high above our boat on the Río Yacuma at Caracoles but then enjoyed good telescope views the next day in the grasslands. The best views however were reserved for the drive back to Rurrenabaque, when a couple were spotted close to the road in small water-filled ditches. Their thick bare necks resembled elongated balloons as they strutted past our jeeps.

Wood Stork Mycteria americana

Nobody ever accused a Wood Stork of being beautiful. Mini jabirus without the gorgeous flash of red, these black and white brutes were seen in small numbers around the waters of Caracoles Lodge and the pampas, again often as specks in the sky above us.

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura

As in much of the Americas, TVs were the default big dark raptor in the sky, so much so that we almost developed a punishment system on the bus for anyone caught calling a halt for one. Only in Amazonia did they surrender their default status to the next species. This bird also had the honour of being our first Bolivian species when they were se tossing in the wind outside Santa Cruz airport.

Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus

It would be nice to say that in Amazonia GHVs replace TVs, but it doesn’t work quite like that. The blue and yellow facial pattern is actually quite attractive, although we only had the chance to see it well when we sped past a couple of GHVs sitting on a sandbar on our way back from Chalalan to Rurrenabaque. We also saw a GHV at the salt lick near Villa Tunari.

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus

Widespread and familiar almost everywhere. Definitely the default mid-sized raptor.

King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa

Having only seen this species as small white specks in a big azure sky before, I was very pleased to have a variety of good views of this chunky vulture. First seen soaring above Los Volcanes but most closely seen when several were seen in a tree along the main trail between Chalalan Lodge and the boat landing area.

Andean Condor Vultur gryphus

It would be criminal to have failed to see this species on a visit to Bolivia, but we nearly succeeded. The only location where we recorded this giant was Los Volcanes. Our first “condor” was a false start as it turned into a King Vulture, but just as spirits were down a real condor flew over the ridge. It was being mobbed by some tiny “sparrows”, which turned out to be Short-tailed Hawks – so I guess these are indeed big birds. Longer, but not closer, views were had of a pair of condors who lived high in a gully above Los Volcanes. They circled around the valley early in the afternoon – a suitably magnificent setting for this special bird.

Gray-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis

One bird was first heard, and then located, calling noisily from a tree on the edge of a clearing near the Río Tuichi at Chalalan. We then saw this bird again at the landing stage as it flew across the river.

Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus

I missed the bird that was seen from the bus on the way back up along the Chapare Road from Villa Tunari to Cochabamba. Fortunately another more obliging bird was seen from the boat on the way to Chalalan. This is the flagship species for the Bolivian ornithological association Armonia.

Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis

We were very pleased to pick this species up at Kim’s Golf course near Santa Cruz, hunting over the lagoon. However nothing quite prepared us for how common this species would be in the pampas. Almost every puddle by the roadside had a Snail Kite perched on a post, surveying for molluscs, hooked bill at the ready. The Río Yacuma had a Snail Kite every few hundred meters and at dawn in the grassland behind Caracoles we watched hundreds of Snail Kites heading off from a communal roost.

Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus

A classical “sparrowhawk” that was seen gliding above the monkey enclosure at feeding time at the Villa Tunari animal refuge. It perched quietly in a tree and watched proceedings very carefully. We also saw one at Chalalan, again following the movement of some monkeys – this time a troupe of Brown Cappuchins.

Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea

A long straight-winged kite that was seen on a few occasions high above the Río Beni and Río Tuichi on our way from Rurrenabaque to Chalalan.

Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens

A distinctive dark hawk with unusual white stripes near the ends of each underwing and two white tail bars that was identified using the scope from the dyke during our morning walk at Caracoles.

White Hawk Leucopternis albicollis

Seen just the once, at a distance, soaring above the river valley just upstream from the salt lick site near Villa Tunari.

Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga

An aptly named raptor that was first seen standing on a sandbar on the return boat trip from Chalalan. We were told that they would be common in the pampas, but in fact we saw this species only once at Caracoles, perched on top of a bush close to the edge of the river.

Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis

An attractive reddish-brown hawk, first seen from the top of a windswept sandy ridge at Lomas de Arena, where four birds were observed rising into the air and being buffeted over the arid scrubland. We later saw this species several times in the pampas, most notable the single bird that saw out siesta time at the swamp behind Caracoles Lodge, hopping along the ground trying to disentangle some branches that appeared to have been caught up in its talons.

Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis

This is one of the handsomest raptors in Southern America, with a creamy head offset from the rusty body by an unusual black front semi-collar. One bird took off from the Chalalan swamp grasping something in its talons and caused an amount of confusion for at least 24 hours as Sandro appeared to have thought it was a “Bicoloured Hawk” (that was until I figured out that we had misheard him). They were relatively common in the pampas and we enjoyed several good views there.

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris

Common and confusing. We recorded this species at most locations, but more so once we established that the chocolate brown hooded raptors that we had been seeing prominently perched at several locations (including Los Volcanes and regularly on the boat trip to Chalalan) were in fact immature Roadsides. These are not depicted accurately in any of the field guides that we had access to.

Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus

A smallish white hawk with a partially dark hood (upper head only) that was seen in flight several times (for example Lagunas Volcanes and the Villa Tunari salt lick). Easily identified in the air by these characteristics.

Red-backed (Variable) Hawk Buteo polyosoma

One species or two? Leaving aside the taxonomic debate, this flavour of Variable Hawk was only seen at Laguna Volcanes, where a bird that perched out in a dead tree at the edge of the lagoon and then flapped around the edge of the water was clearly this species by the rusty upper back.

Puna (Variable) Hawk Buteo poecilochrous

The other flavour of Variable Hawk was first seen in the puna at the pass between Cochabamba and Villa Tunari, but was also common and viewed closely in the puna around Copacabana on Lake Titicaca.

Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle Spizastur melanoleucus

A large pale eagle (from beneath) with a barred undertail that we enjoyed clear views of high above Laguna Volcanes. If only all raptors were so clearly marked…

Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus

This raptor was the surprise package on the way into Chalalan from Rurrenabaque. We saw it above the riparian woodland to our left and had enough time to take good field notes. The bird was large, small-headed, black and showed very fine barring on the broad underwing and undertail. Black Hawk-Eagle is the only candidate.

Black Caracara Daptrius ater

These birds always look somewhat sinister to me, like messengers from the dark side. Perhaps it’s the large coloured face patches. Almost all our sightings were from the Río Beni and Río Tuichi en route to Chalalan, where they featured on dead logs on river islands and perched atop trees.

Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus

A glamorous caracara that brightened up some of the highest altitude locations that we visited. First seen at the high pass between Villa Tunari and Cochabamba, with one immature (not so glamorous in autumnal yellow and brown) bird on the way down and several adults on the way back (including perched at the roadside). The only raptor seen at the high pass behind Lake Titicaca on our way to Copacabana.

Southern (Crested) Caracara Caracara plancus

The largest and most widespread of the caracaras, particularly common in the open country around Santa Cruz and the pampas. We drove past several fields that appeared to have grazing herds of this species picking their way over the turf.

Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima

Probably our first caracara, seen from the bus on the way in to Santa Cruz from the airport, but not seen well enough. Our only definite record was on top of a tree in front of our canoe on the Río Yacuma at Caracoles.

Barred Forest-Falcon Micrastur ruficollis

We had several incorrect calls on this species during the first week of the trip but finally came good in Chalalan, where an immature forest falcon that was seen on consecutive visits to the swamp, quietly perched on the edge of the clearing, turned out to be this species.

Lined Forest-Falcon Micrastur gilvicollis

On our last morning in Chalalan we approached a tall tree at dawn, where an incredibly ventriloqual call resounded from somewhere in the canopy. Try as we might we could not locate the caller (although Alejandro assured us it was a forest-falcon) and had to walk on in defeated frustration. Subsequent listening to Sjoerd Mayer’s CD confirms that Alejandro was correct and that the call was almost certainly this species.

American Kestrel Falco sparverius

The most commonly seen falcon, with regular records throughout the trip. Notably seen on the first day, flying over the Plaza 24 de Septiembre, Santa Cruz, and on the second last day above Lake Titicaca (which gives a fair indication of its cosmopolitan habitat and altitude preferences).

Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis

Our first and most memorable sighting of this little falcon was at Laguna Volcanes, where one was classically perched on the tip of a tall dead tree, silhouetted against the bright late morning sunshine. We watched it through the scope make a few rapid sallies from its lookout post, catching an insect and returning to the perch. Also seen from the boat on the journey in to Chalalan.

Limpkin Aramus guarauna

An eccentric water bird that made an early appearance at the lagoon by the entrance to Kim’s Gold Course near Santa Cruz, with three birds visiting in the late afternoon. However there is no doubt that Caracoles stole the Limpkin show, with literally hundreds of Limpkins in the air at dusk, flying over the Río Yacuma on the way (presumably) to communal roosting sites.

Ocellated Crake Micropygia schomburgkii

Of the many strange noises most likely coming from various invisible rallidae in the rank grasslands of the Río Yacuma floodplain, only a Corncrake-like rasping was positively identified as being this species.

Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea

A large and easy-to-see forest rail that made several appearances. Tony’s group drew first blood along the stream at Los Volcanes. We quickly pulled level with a sighting in the hills at Achira. However nobody could miss the birds seen by the edge of the Río Tuichi on the way in to Chalalan and along the margins of the Río Yacuma at Caracoles.

Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius

Two birds were seen noisily chasing one another back and forth along a dead log that lay out in the swamp at Chalalan. It may not be the most stunningly beautiful crake in the world – but hey, they all count…

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

As always there was that slight feeling of robbery when I realised that the common freshwater gallinule is the same species that haunts my local park. First seen in the Jardín Botánico Municipal, Santa Cruz and most impressively resident in huge numbers on the small Laguna Volcanes.

Slate-coloured (Andean) Coot Fulica ardesiaca

Bolivia hosts several species of coot and in the deceiving light of Lake Titicaca we thought that maybe we were seeing several of them. They were big (but not as big as Giant Coot), they had something bobby on their forehead (but not as bizarre as those of the Horned Coot), and sported prominent white under tail-coverts (ruling out White-winged Coot). Selected reedy edges of Lake Titicaca were covered in coots, but every bird that was thoroughly checked turned out to be this species. I am sure there were others out there.

Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana

Present at almost all locations where a jacana would be expected: namely ponds and shallow lagoons. On most occasions we also saw young birds. Example locations included the Jardín Botánico Municipal Santa Cruz, the swamp at Chalalan and many in the floodplain of the Río Yacuma around Caracoles.

Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus

Several flocks in the air above the sand dunes of Lomas de Arena were our only encounter with this species.

Pied Lapwing Vanellus cayanus

Looking much more like a true plover than a lapwing, this small vanellus was fairly common along the banks and sandbars of the Río Beni and Río Tuichi between Ruurenebaque and Chalalan. It was also very approachable and tended to stroll off rather than fly.

Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis

A large, common and attractive lapwing of the lower elevations, first recorded at Lomas de Arena but then seen regularly elsewhere.

Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens

A smaller and slightly duller version of the previous species, which appears to take over at the higher elevations. They were obediently waiting for us in the car park of La Paz airport and were common on the altiplano, especially around Lake Titicaca.

Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca

From the windswept sand ridges at Loma de Arenas we had distant scope views of a flooded lagoon where several small groups of waders were foraging. The larger of the waders present were this species.

Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria

Having expected to see this species on the two length boat trips between Rurrenabaque and Chalalan, it wasn’t until our return to Rurrenabaque that one was seen hunting by the sewage outflow just outside our hotel. We also saw this bird at Caracoles.

Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia

Several were seen as the “default sandpiper” on the boat trips between Rurrenabaque and Chalalan.

Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos

I have spent hours hunting through flocks of Sharp-tailed Sandpipers in Australia looking for this species, so it was somewhat of an anticlimax to so easily finally see “pecs” on this trip (with their cleanly demarked breast plumage easily seen even from a distance through the scope). The first small flock was from the windswept ridge at Lomas de Arena, but some very good views were had at the Rurrenabaque sewage outflow and also from the dyke at Caracoles.

Andean Gull Larus serranus

For many hours on the slowest catamaran in the world, this was the only species visible over Lake Titicaca. In fact is safe to say that if these were not fairly common over Lake Titicaca, the inner realms of the lake itself would be a birding desert.

Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris

The more slender (and boring) of the two river terns, we saw this species several times on our runs between Rurrenabaque and Chalalan.

Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex

An almost comic looking tern, whose conk gives it the impression of a skimmer rather than a tern. Certainly much more of a yellow bill than the previous species, but “large-billed” is undoubtedly appropriate. We saw this species several times on the boat trips to Chalalan. Most notable was one that followed us for quite a few kilometres on the outward journey (not long out of Rurrenabaque) and the pair that dive-bombed Henry and George on one of the sand islands that we traversed on foot.

Black Skimmer Rynchops niger

Fantastic birds that we saw on just a few occasions on the way back from Chalalan to Rurrenabaque. One patrolled the sewage outflow outside the Hotel Safari at Rurrenabaque and circled round and around, skimming just offshore right in front of my binoculars. Unfortunately when John went down with his killer lens the bird made one last circle and then flapped off downstream.

Scaled Pigeon Columba speciosa

A very spotty brown pigeon of the rainforest, seen well during one of our many neck-craning exercises at Chalalan. We only saw the species once, but it isn’t clear how many of the silhouetted pigeons seen flying at speed over the canopy might also have been this species.

Spot-winged Pigeon Columba maculosa

It took a few missed opportunities before I finally got a good look at the large greyish pigeons that were commonly seen flying around the shores of Lake Titicaca. A glance of one at Copacabana left the impression of white on the wing, but a good view of one at Isla del Sol showed the telltale white spots on the wing.

Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis

It seems to be fairly easy to overlook this large pigeon and we certainly had done so on the trip until arriving in the pampas, where several were seen from the boat on our outings at Caracoles.

Plumbeous Pigeon Columba plumbea

First heard (the classical “who cooks for you” of the neotropical forest) and seen at Los Volcanes. We saw greatest numbers of this skittish species at Chalalan, where several sizeable flocks were seen from our canoe out on Lake Chalalan, seemingly able to constantly disappear into the forest canopy and only be seen in flight when disturbed.

Ruddy Pigeon Columba subvinacea

A rusty version of the previous species that was probably overlooked in Chalalan. We definitely recorded it once, when a clearly reddish pigeon sat out on a bare limb directly above our heads, but we probably crossed paths more often than that.

Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata

Not the common city dweller that we were familiar with in Ecuador. This did describe it however at Copacabana on Lake Titicaca, where Eared Doves sat on the lampposts in the busy town centre. Elsewhere it seemed surprisingly scarce and we only definitely noted a small flock at Lomas de Arena and Kim’s Golf Course. Another species that was probably overlooked.

Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti

A distinctive small ground dove that we saw on a number of occasions. Our first solitary bird was foraging by the edge of the river at the salt lick site near Villa Tunari. Subsequently we saw this species at close range from the boat at Caracoles.

Picui Ground-Dove Columbina picui

Rather dull for a dove, with only the white flask on the wing distinctive. This was the common default dove at the Jardín Botánico Municipal, Santa Cruz and Kim’s Golf Course. We also ran into it in small numbers around Caracoles.

Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa

Just one pair of these unusual doves (he’s blue and she’s reddish brown) was seen sitting in the dust by the edge of the road as we rattled back down the highway to Rurrenabaque from Reyes. It was a brief glimpse, but enough to be sure.

White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi

One bird seen perambulating through open forest at the Jardín Botánico Municipal, Santa Cruz was almost certainly this species.

Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla

This was a surprisingly easily seen dove on the edges of the Río Yacuma at Caracoles, where we regularly saw them strutting along the bank, waddling into cover as our boat approached.

Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon violacea

A low Bronzewing style “ooming” heard deep in the forest at Chalalan was highly likely to have been this species. In fact we almost certainly also saw it, when a bright rufous bird was seen flying low down a gully beneath our path.

Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna

Three birds offered prolonged views atop one of the pinnacles at the Villa Tunari salt lick. Watching them fly in and settle about 50 metres from where we were crouched was a truly memorable experience. Later views of this species were all of distant birds in flight across the Río Beni and Río Tuichi on our way to Chalalan.

Military Macaw Ara militaris

We heard throaty macaw calls long before we saw this species on the ridge high above Los Volcanes. After our guide had identified the call we waited a full minute before four birds were seen slowly cruising towards us high in the sky. They looked at one point as if they would pass directly overhead, but then changed direction slightly and passed behind the mountain.

Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera

A couple of birds were seen at the Villa Tunari salt lick, arriving towards the end of our vigil and shortly after Arturo had decided they would not show. Subsequently we saw this species fairly regularly flying over the Río Beni and Río Tuichi on the journeys to and from Chalalan. Notably this species also had a nest hole at the top of a sheer cliff by the edge of the river and was seen peeking out of its hole on the way in to Chalalan.

Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa

The second commonest species at the Villa Tunari salt lick, where several small flocks flew in for nourishment. Also a fairly common macaw along the Río Beni and Río Tuichi on the way to and from Chalalan.

Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilata

This was species was seen in flight just once, flying rapidly above us while we walked along a dyke at Caracoles.

Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata

Distinctive parrots with red faces and crowns offsetting a white eye. This was one of the most active species at Los Volcanes but it took a while before we were able to pin some down in a distant tree and study them against the steep slope through the telescope.

White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus

Although I am sure we did see this species later, my only strong recollection is of a small flock that flew by us at Kim’s Golf Course, near Santa Cruz. The yellow forehead and notable white eye provided the identifiers.

Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii

A small dark-headed parakeet that was the third most numerous at the Villa Tunari salt lick. Also recorded along the Río Beni and Río Tuichi en route to Chalalan.

Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratinga aurea

Exotically named parakeets that were the “default parrots” in the pampas. The were regularly seen flying over head but it took some time before we were able to study some in a tree, and even then at some distance.

Green-cheeked Parakeet Pyrrhura molinae

Quite a strange looking parakeet with a rather “dirty” plumage, sporting a green cheek only when examined carefully, but otherwise appearing somewhat dishevelled. Our first and best view of this species was in the Jardín Botánico Municipal, Santa Cruz, where a small flock had arrived to drink from a leaking water tap.

Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius

A tiny tailless parrot that we saw on our first day, screaming through the suburbs of Santa Cruz and briefly perching on some telegraph wires. Their tiny lorikeet-like calls were heard around the city more commonly than at other locations that we visited.

Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri

A fairly common parakeet of Santa Cruz and surrounds, and easily seen around the city itself. What of course is most confusing is that this species is not depicted in any of the three field guides that I was travelling with. However a healthy collection in the Santa Cruz Jardin Zoologico aviary banished any identification doubts.

Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera

This species replaces Blue-winged Parrotlet as the default “small noisy and fast” parrot of the Amazon regions. Never seen well, but always easily identified by the speed, agility and high pitched screeches as flocks shot over the Río Beni and Río Tuichi on the way to and from Chalalan.

White-bellied Parrot Pionites leucogaster

I suppose that the white belly is indeed a feature, but this unusually smart parrot also sports a yellow face and rusty cap, to which my eyes were more naturally drawn. We saw small flocks on several occasions around Chalalan. This species is highly distinctive and unlike other parrots tended to be very visible in the upper canopies of trees by the river edge.

Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus

Probably one of the most beautiful Bolivian parrots and certainly not a hard bird to see. Large amazona-sized parrots heard croaking and seen in flight above Santa Cruz may well have been this species, but it was at the Villa Tunari salt lick that we became most familiar with this species as a large flock were present. They tended to be rather jumpy and on several occasions all took to the air and circled before landing once again. In the early sun we saw a small party perched on top of a bush, catching the full glow of the light on their deep blue heads.