One of the relatively few familiar species sighted on our first morning in Namibia, at Augeigas Dam in Daan Viljoen Game Park. Also seen swimming amongst the drinking raptors at Rietfontein Waterhole in Etosha.
White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax
lucidus
The default large cormorant in inland Namibia. Recorded I the vicinity of Windhoek at Augeigas Dam in Daan Viljoen and Avis Dam. Also the most visible cormorant along the Okavango River, with sightings from most locations where any time was spent, including n’Kwazi Lodge, Ndhovu Lodge and Popa Falls.
Reed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus
A small, dark cormorant that was seen sitting on rocks by the edge of Augeigas Dam, Daan Viljoen and on the sandbar in front of Ndhovu Lodge.
African Darter Anhinga rufa
No freshwater habitat anywhere in the more exotic parts of the world is complete without some member of the anhingidae family, and Namibia proved no exception. Surprisingly this did not seem to be a particularly common bird at the various freshwater sites we visited, but we did see single birds at Augeigas Dam, Daan Viljoen, and on the Okavango River at Ndhovu Lodge.
Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus
A last gasp entry onto the Namibian bird list, with three seen on Avis Dam on our way to the airport. They pottered around on the reservoir before taking of and circling gradually into the thermals above the dam.
Goliath Heron Ardea
goliath
A magnificent and unmistakeable heron species, towering above its closest relatives in stature. We enjoyed only one sighting on our first morning in Mahango Game Reserve, where one bird was seen fishing from a short promontory on the other side of the backwater overlooked from Kwetche picnic site.
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Only one bird seen flying along the Okavango River in front of n’Kwazi Lodge. None were recorded further east along the river, despite a reasonable number of hours of river watching.
Great Egret Egretta alba
This was also not as common a water bird along the Okavango as had been expected. The only records of single birds were from Mahango Game Reserve, where conditions were admittedly fairly dry.
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Probably under-recorded during our visit to the Okavango region, with definite records in flight in front of n’Kwazi Lodge and probable distant specimens in Mahango Game Reserve. Several groups of egrets flying in front of Ndhovu Lodge were not identified and a small egret glimpsed behind the reeds at Namutoni waterhole was probably this species.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Recorded along the Okavango, with several sightings of small flocks flying in front of Ndhovu Lodge, particularly at the top and tail ends of the day. One bird was also seen at Avis Dam.
Squacco Heron Ardeola
ralloides
One bird was seen in the late afternoon, feeding out on the floodplain of the Okavango, from the Giant Baobab picnic site in Mahango Game Reserve.
Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca
A most unexpected, and late, sighting of one bird at Avis Dam on our way to the airport. It was instantly recognisable on the far shore of the reservoir by its “umbrella” fishing technique. We were surprised how approachable the bird was, and it seem fairly relaxed about the dogs that bounded along the lake margins, just casually flapping across the lake in the close company of a Cattle Egret, and resuming fishing at a new location. Interestingly this species appears to have been significantly out of normal range at Avis Dam.
Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola
rufiventris
It took several attempts before at least one of the small heron species that tended to move around the waters of the Okavango in front of Ndhovu Lodge in the murky light of dawn ad dusk was identified as a Rufous-bellied Heron.
Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax
nycticorax
A couple of birds were seen flying along the Okavango – one in the early morning from n’Kwazi Lodge and another in the late afternoon from Ndhovu Lodge.
Green-backed Heron Butorides
striata
This small heron was probably commoner along the Okavango than our couple of sightings at n’Kwazi and Ndhovu suggest. We probably needed to get out there in a boat to make a more informed judgement!
Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus
An African classic, and sure enough when we eventually encountered this species at Klein Namutoni waterhole in Etosha, a half dozen of them were perched on top of a decaying giraffe, getting their daily protein. Ungainly on the ground, but graceful in the air, where they were quite hard to tell apart from the vultures as they circled high into the afternoon sky.
Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus
senegalensis
Probably one of the most striking birds of the trip, looking almost like a harlequin from beak to foot. We saw only one bird, at a small lookout over the floodplain a few kilometres west of the Giant Baobab in Mahango Game reserve. We would have been disappointed to miss this species.
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia
episcopus
As storks go, this one is pretty weird. The thick “woolly” neck and stoop gave the slight impression of an old man. We saw two single birds, one out on the floodplain and another stalking the savannah margins, at Mahango Game Reserve.
African Spoonbill Platalea
alba
A couple of sightings of solitary birds flying over the Okavango, one in front of Ndhovu and the other in Mahango Game reserve.
Hamerkop Scopus umbretta
Another of the more eccentric African water bird species. Being somewhat stocky, dark brown, relatively short-billed and with a chunky head, this bird gave a distinctly raptor like “jizz”, except that most of our few sightings were of birds taking off from dense vegetation, making a short flight and then dropping back down. A much better view was had from the deck at Ndhovu, when one bird made a flypast, banked around and then flapped back up the river.
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
One bird seen flying down the Okavango in front of n’Kwazi Lodge in the late afternoon was our only sighting
Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus
gambensis
An extraordinarily large goose with the plumage of a Muscovy Duck. We saw a few birds flying along the Okavango River from Ndhovu Lodge, and also saw them grazing in small numbers out on the floodplains in Mahango Game Reserve.
Egyptian Goose Alopochen
aegyptiaca
After years of feral sightings, it was finally good to catch up with this species in a more natural habitat. Most commonly seen in pairs, both around Windhoek (Daan Viljoen and Avis Dam) and on some of the Etosha waterholes (such as Goas). Interestingly one pair were quite happily roosting in the bask of the floodlights at Okaukuejo waterhole.
South African Shelduck Tadorna
cana
One bird was seen at Goas waterhole in Etosha National Park and another from the Giant Baobab picnic area in Mahango Game Reserve.
Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos
Another unusual water bird, this time in the shape of a fairly large pied duck, the male of which sports a strange protuberance from the bill. Two birds were seen flying down the Okavango at Ndhovu Lodge on our last morning there.
White-faced Duck Dendrocygna
viduata
A small flock were seen in the distance from the Giant Baobab lookout in Mahango Game Reserve. The birds white faces were highly distinctive in flight, but the birds unfortunately disappeared from view once they had dropped down onto the flats.
Cape Teal Anas capensis
Our only sighting of this species was a few birds on Daan Viljoen’s Augeigas Dam.
Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha
Six birds were present at Goas waterhole in Etosha National Park. We saw a further two or three at some distance on the edge of a flooded lagoon close to the edge of Etosha Pan.
Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos
tracheliotus
Undoubtedly the most impressive of the Namibian vulture species that we encountered. Our first sighting was of two birds soaring high above the road north of Omaruru. Much better views were had at Rietfontein waterhole in Etosha, where the two birds drinking at the edge of the pool could be directly compared in size with the smaller (and commoner) White-backed Vultures. A further two birds were seen at the Klein Namutoni Giraffe-fest.
White-backed Vulture Gyps
africanus
The commonest vulture, and seen at several locations around Etosha National Park. The largest concentration was at Klein Namutoni, where up to 20 birds were seen huddled together by the edge of the water. They later made a magnificent spectacle as they spiralled around the parking bay, climbing silently into the sky. We also came across a messy nest of a White-backed Vulture, stuffed into the top of a tall acacia just outside the gate to the park closest to Namutoni.
African Fish-eagle Haliaeetus
vocifer
Another classical African species, which was common along the Okavango, especially in Mahango Game Reserve. While the adults presented no identification challenges, we did have some problems with the mottled immatures, who often did not give away their true identity until they uttered the distinctive call of this species, which is somewhat reminiscent of a Herring Gull.
Bataleur Terathopius ecaudatus
This must be one of the most distinctive eagle species in the world. Everything about this colourful bird is striking and diagnostic, from the dramatic white underwings, bright red feet and squat square head to the angular wings and flight profile. Our first record was from Rietfontein waterhole in Etosha, but we also saw birds at Ndhovu and from several roadside locations.
Black-chested Snake-eagle Circaetus
pectoralis
A big eagle that looks dark at rest, but on take-off reveals white underwings and breast. We saw one bird perched on a bush along the short entrance track to Erongo Wilderness Lodge. The bush looked almost incapable of supporting such a substantial bird, perhaps exaggerated by its bulky owl-like head. We subsequently observed this species several times by the roadside, notably on the approach to Hobatere Lodge.
Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis
One of a group of extremely similar eagle species, which it is probably fair to say we would not have identified had we not had the opportunity to examine one at rest next to Rietfontein waterhole in Etosha. The bird was very dark and good telescope views revealed that the gape extended slightly behind the eye, which is not something you’re going to pick up in flight!
Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax
The most common eagle that we saw in Namibia, and generally separated from its closest allies by being tawny, and relatively pale. We saw this species regularly in Etosha, and also at other locations such as on the Hobatere entrance drive, where a juvenile was seen prominently perched atop its old nest, and on the approach road to Waterberg National Park.
Verreaux’s Eagle Aquila
verreauxii
Formerly known as the Black Eagle, for all the obvious reasons, we saw a pair of these birds soaring in the heat of the afternoon high above the granite hills in front of Erongo Wilderness Lodge. A second pair was seen some ten kilometres further into the mountains at sundown. Apparently a species of the type of remote, wild, mountainous places that you expect to see eagles soaring.
African Hawk-eagle Aquila
fasciatus
One pair of this distinctively marked eagle species was seen hunting over the Waterberg Plateau, close to the accommodation huts. No other African eagle has the pied underwing profile of this species.
Steppe Buzzard Buteo
vulpinus
Looks like a buzzard, and is a buzzard. A widely distributed raptor that we saw singly at a number of diverse locations, such as the roadside north of Omaruru, Rietfontein waterhole and Von Bach Dam.
African Marsh-harrier Circus ranivorus
Only one sighting from the deck at Ndhovu Lodge, shortly after our afternoon arrival there, of a bird flying down the Okavango River.
Pallid Harrier Circus
macrourus
A male harrier seen briefly, twice, taking off and landing behind Okondeka waterhole was almost certainly this species. The underwing appeared completely pale. Despite the fact that the surroundings of Okondeka waterhole were particularly bare and barren, the bird could not be located at rest with the telescope, so there remains only a slight chance that it was instead Montagu’s Harrier.
Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus
If you are going to choose a “default raptor” to perch on telegraph poles and roadside trees, then it might as well be an attractive one. This was the most commonly sighted raptor, although we never ever saw one in flight – they just seem to sit there all day, watching the traffic go by…
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Unfortunately identifying milvus species in Namibia comes with its own challenge, as there are two very similar species present in the north-east of the country. Identification requires a long hard look, and the only bird we were definitely able to label as a Black Kite was one that was flying low over Goas waterhole. Surprisingly this was one of the few milvus sp. that we recorded in Etosha.
Yellow-billed Kite Milvus parasitus
Milvus kites were more common along the Okavango River, although they were never seen in large numbers. All the birds that we were able to definitely identify were Yellow-billed Kites, seen along the Caprivi road, in front of Ndhovu and in Mahango Game Reserve.
Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus
This is one hell of a cute bird, and was one of my Namibian favourites. While we did not manage to see one perched directly on top of a Sociable Weaver’s nest, the pretty little male (no bigger than a thrush) was hunting around the Okaukuejo camping ground, which does contain a monstrous weaver nest. A quick and rapid flier between the acacias in the camp, the first impression was almost of a small owlet.
Gabar Goshawk Melierax
gabar
A very attractive small goshawk, almost like a miniature version of the Pale-chanting. Our first sighting was of a bird that flew like a rocket over the Hobatere swimming pool in the middle of the afternoon and perched on top of the large Ana tree. We also saw this species above Aus waterhole and on the road to Andoni in Etosha.
Shikra Accipter badius
A small accipter that we saw on the morning walk at Hobatere (flying swiftly overhead), drinking at Aus waterhole in Etosha, and in the forest between our hut and the Waterberg restaurant, where it was located by its incessant calling from a dead tree.
Lanner Falcon Falco
biarmicus
This particularly handsome, and large, falcon was fairly common at waterholes in Etosha (particularly Okondeka, Goas and Rietfontein), where they were often seen standing at the edge of the water. We also recorded a few in flight while we drove around the park.
Red-necked Falcon Falco
chicquera
A little falcon, very much like a miniature Lanner. We saw a pair sitting on the ground sitting next to Rietfontein waterhole in Etosha. Several birds were also seen in flight over the bushveld on the trip north to Rundu.
Eurasian Hobby Falco
subbuteo
Just one sighting of a bird flying off rapidly from a tree in Mahango Game Reserve. At least it was a familiar species!
Dickinson’s Kestrel Falco
dickinsoni
One bird seen briefly over the woodland adjacent to the Okavango River at n’Kwazi Lodge was unfortunately not relocated.
Rock (Common) Kestrel Falco
(tinnunculus) rupicolis
We had several sightings of this species, and failed to connect with the fact that it should have been more familiar to us because of the nature of the arid rocky habitat of our first sightings. One bird was observed on the rocky plateau at Daan Viljoen and several were seen from the summit of the rocks above Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Only when one was seen by the roadside on our way back from Hobatere did the penny finally drop.
Greater Kestrel Falco
rupicoloides
A fairly chunky speckled kestrel that was positively identified only once, on the approach road to Homob waterhole in Etosha. Several distantly viewed kestrels in Etosha may well have also been this species.
Red-billed Francolin Pternistes adspersus
I was quite excited by my first glimpse of these partridge-like birds, scuttling from the Hobatere Lodge waterhole at dusk. The next morning at dawn they were running between the Hobatere huts. We enjoyed a slight hiatus until Namutoni, where we photographed one close to the edge of the road. But they were like chickens in Mahango Game Reserve, and so by the time we discovered that you could just about pick them up around the huts at Waterberg the novelty had finally worn off.
Swainson’s Spurfowl Pternistes swainsonii
A slightly plumper version of the previous species, which was observed in the grounds of Namutoni camp and in Mahango Game Reserve.
Crested Francolin Peliperdix sephaena
A solitary francolin that was pottering across the road not far from the Namutoni entrance to Etosha was assumed to be one of the previous species until we swerved to avoid it and realised that it was paler and more streaked. By the time we had turned the car around it had (surprise, surprise) vanished into the thornveld. Orange River Francolin is a remote possibility, but given habitat and first impressions, this was almost certainly the species.
Hartlaub’s Francolin Pternistes
hartlaubi
The desired object of many hours of ornithological energy in the Erongo mountains, we had a couple of sightings around Erongo Wilderness Lodge without any serious trying. The first bird was seen sprinting across the road during our late afternoon drive to the cave paintings on the lodge property. The next morning we strolled a few kilometres into the property from the lodge and observed a lone male standing on top of a fairly prominent rock. After successfully stalking him for a photograph, rather than flushing he just wandered off casually into the surrounding bush.
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida
meleagris
Always good value birds that were fairly common at all the locations visited except those around the Okavango River. At Hobatere large flocks were seen towards dusk running along the top of an embankment on their way in to drink at the dam. Around Etosha they were regularly sighted at the waterholes and drinking in puddles at the side of the road. Their calls were particularly evocative in the afternoon, often being one of the few sounds to ring out from the bush during the heat of the day. At Waterberg they were particularly tame, grazing casually on the lawns in front of the huts.
Common Ostrich Struthio
camelus
As amazing as expected, but not as widely distributed as we had been expecting. There was no problem seeing this bird in Etosha, where they were present at many of the waterholes, including Okondeka and Aus, but we only enjoyed a few sightings outside Etosha. A group of three birds ran across the road during our afternoon game drive at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, we noted a couple of birds by the roadside just outside Etosha and in Mahango Game Reserve.
Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata
Despite the relatively glamorous name, this species looks just like any other species of coot unless you get a good close view. This species was recorded at Augeigas Dam in Daan Viljoen Game Park and at Von Bach Dam.
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Another of the relatively few “familiar” birds of the trip, with single sightings at Augeigas Dam in Daan Viljoen Game Park and at Namutoni waterhole in Etosha National Park.
Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris
We were thrilled to catch views of a Black Crake skulking on the margins of the tall reed bed in the middle of Namutoni waterhole. Another glimpse was had of another crake retreating into the dense rushes by the edge of the Okavango River at n’Kwazi. Neither of these skulking experiences prepared us for the fact that in the grounds of Ndhovu the Black Crakes strutted around the edge of the lawn in broad daylight! The sound of animals moving around the undergrowth beneath the deck at night were also suspected to be this species.
African Jacana Actophilornis
africanus
A very pretty jacana (but then aren’t they all) that was common at all the Okavango sites visited, normally seen on lily pads by the edge of the river.
Lesser Jacana Microparra capensis
A small “wader” that appeared to be foraging on the far shore of the Okavango River at n’Kwazi revealed itself to be this species when it flew a brief distance along the bank, mosquito-like legs trailing in classic jacana style.
Wattled Crane Grus
carunculatus
Three of these very graceful cranes were seen from the Giant Baobab picnic site in Mahango in the late afternoon. The view was distant and somewhat melancholy, because prior reading had suggested that there used to be three pairs normally seen from this location, and we wondered if three pairs were now reduced to three birds. Either way, it was a stark reminder that while Mahango was a great birding location, it is also a very vulnerable reserve.
Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius
We were fairly desperate to see this species, and in the end recorded it on three separate occasions in Etosha. All views were unfortunately at some distance, but then again that is the advantage of hunting a big bird in an open landscape. Two birds were seen from the vantage point at Salvadore waterhole, one on the road between Halali and Namutoni, and several were noted on the sandy margins of Fischer’s Lagoon, in the vicinity of Twee Palms (and we couldn’t persuade any of them to turn into Blue Cranes).
Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori
A giant and very classical bustard seen on several occasions around Etosha, notably on the flats north of Okaukuejo and at Newbrownii waterhole, although several were also seen along the roads of the park. Interestingly our only other sighting was of two enormous birds flying over the main highway north of Okahandja. Like similar bustard of their genre, Kori Bustards don’t look much like they should be able to fly, but in fact they do so quite gracefully.
Ludwig’s Bustard Neotis
ludwigii
We saw just one specimen, precisely where Steve Braine said it would be, hanging around Okondeka waterhole, tiptoeing around the sleeping lions. This is a very sleek and handsome bustard, with a dark neck and chestnut shoulder, separated by a white “go-fast” stripe.
Red-crested Korhaan Eupodotis
ruficrista
Despite the somewhat gaudy illustrations in the field guide, this little bustard appeared dull and non-descript almost every time we saw it, which was surprisingly often. Our first sighting was of one crossing the road on our way north to the Erongo Mountains. We saw another at Erongo Wilderness Lodge at a dam, another was spotlit on one of the Hobatere night drives, saw several around Etosha, and another at Mahango Game Reserve.
Northern Black Korhaan Eupodotis
afraoides
In contrast, no field guide prepares you for the contrasting colours of this beautiful little korhaan, whose yellow legs glow against the jet-black breast and neck. Our first specimen drew attention to itself by the side of the road at Erongo by raucously screaming like a cockerel that had just been snatched by a fox. It wasn’t clear what all the fuss was about, because it was just standing by the edge of the road scolding us rather than looking like a bird in any pain. Pleasingly this was a fairly common species in Etosha and we enjoyed several good close views of birds by the roadside.
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
A small flock of stilts were observed feeding in the shallows of a flooded inlet of Etosha Pan, close to Springbokfontein.
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius
hiaticula
Each of the waterholes we visited tended to have a handful of wader species, but this one was only recorded at Goas waterhole in Etosha.
Three-banded Plover Charadrius
tricollaris
A small and unusual plover with grey face and bright red bill, very much filling the same niches as the “Black-fronted Dotterel” does in Australia. We came across solitary birds at several waterhole locations, including Hobatere, Goas waterhole (Etosha) and Avis Dam.
Kittlitz’s Plover Charadrius
pecuarius
A sleek and compact little plover. One flock was seen at Andoni waterhole in Etosha, running around a muddy, pebbled plain adjacent to the waterhole.
Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus
A widely distributed large lapwing that unusually we first recorded on one of the night drives at Hobatere. They were common in Etosha and seen every day in the park. Also present in Mahango Game Reserve.
Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris
This relatively tall and slender lapwing was seen only once, from the Giant Baobab picnic area in Mahango Game Reserve. An unusual looking lapwing, with striking white face, superficially resembling a huge Pied Wagtail.
African Wattled Lapwing Vanellus
senegallus
This species was only seen on a couple of occasions from the deck at Ndhovu Lodge, feeding on the sandbank or flying noisily over the surrounding river margins. A much closer fit to the large lapwings of the Asia/Pacific region.
Blacksmith Plover Vanellus
armatus
One of the commonest and most striking wetland birds, recorded from most of the locations visited where water was present. This species also enjoys the notable honour of being our first African species, being spotted on the runway margins of Johannesburg Airport on our short transit connection stop there.
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Now for a bath of more familiar birds. One bird feeding in the weedy margins of Goas waterhole in Etosha was as expected. However the three birds running around the lawns of Namutoni camp, making good use of the sprinklers, was a slightly more unusual sight.
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris
alpina
One at Okaukuejo waterhole and two at Goas waterhole, both in Etosha National Park.
Little Stint Calidris minuta
One at Okaukuejo waterhole in Etosha and another at Avis Dam.
Common Sandpiper Actitis
hypoleucos
Occupying very much the same niche as it does everywhere else in the world! Recorded from Daan Viljoen, Halali waterhole, Goas waterhole (both Etosha) and on the sandbar in front of Ndhovu Lodge, on the Okavango River.
Wood Sandpiper Tringa
glareola
Surprisingly one of the most often recorded species, noted at Aus waterhole, Goas waterhole, Namutoni waterhole (all Etosha) and Avis Dam.
Common Greenshank Tringa
nebularia
Seen just the once, sitting on the sandbar in front of Ndhovu Lodge in the mid day heat of our last full day there.
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa
stagnatilis
Always looking thin and slightly fragile, Marsh Sandpipers were seen at Namutoni waterhole, on the sandbar in front of Ndhovu Lodge and at Avis Dam.
Collared Pratincole Glareola
pratincola
Several birds were seen flying down the Okavango River from Ndhovu lodge late in the afternoon, and another seen at considerable distance perched on a sandbar of the Okavango in Mahango Game Reserve.
Rock Pratincole Glareola
nuchalis
The kind of wonderfully weird bird that we had travelled all this way to see. We scoped out a Rock Pratincole (or at least a blob that had to be a Rock Pratincole) about half a kilometre upstream from our deck location at Ndhovu lodge, which wasn’t exactly fulfilling. However at Popa Falls we had better, although still fairly distant, views of birds perched on the rocks on the upstream side of the “falls”. These were exceptionally well camouflaged, but fortunately were generally restless and made short flights between rocks or out over the river, allowing them to be relocated amongst the grey boulders.
Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus
capensis
Great views were enjoyed on the first Hobatere night drive of a bird at the Hobatere waterhole, bobbing up and down nervously right next to the car. Three birds were also seen in thick cover by the roadside near Twee Palms (Etosha). One dead specimen was seen on the road on our way out from Waterberg.
Water Thick-knee Burhinus
vermiculatus
Small flocks of this smaller thick-knee species were seen on each day of our stay at Ndhovu, standing on the productive sandbar in front of the lodge, and also flying along the river in the late afternoon.
Temminck’s Courser Cursorius
temminckii
A solitary bird was glimpsed in short grass by the side of the road to the west of Divundu, as we picked up speed for the long haul to Rundu.
Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus
Excellent views of this pretty courser were enjoyed between
Goas and Etosha Pan lookout, when a pair of birds (and their chick) posed by
the side of the road, showing little concern fro the large while VW polo that
was staring them out. Another pair of birds occupied a similar roadside
location next to the main road closer to Etosha Pan.
African Skimmer Rhynchops
flavirostris
Another species best enjoyed from the comfort of the deck at Ndhovu Lodge, both in flight back and forth in front of the lodge, and also at rest on the sandbar (single birds each time). Also seen at a distance on another sandbar within Mahango Game Reserve.
White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus
The most commonly sighted tern. One bird was seen fishing at Goas waterhole, and a couple of distant birds seen in the flooded inlet at Springbokfontein, both in Etosha National Park. Some quite substantial flocks of these terns were also seen flying along the Okavango River from Ndhovu Lodge.
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
One definite record only, amidst a small flock of White-winged Terns on the Okavango River in front of Ndhovu Lodge.
Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus
One of the most thrilling desert birding experiences is the arrival of large flocks of sandgrouse at waterholes, and the most spectacular examples on our trip involved this species. Around 300 birds came into the small waterhole close to Hobatere Lodge just after dusk, only just visible with the naked eye as they landed in the sand and shuffled carefully down to the water’s edge, taking off at the slightest hint of danger, circling and repeating the process. A couple of hundred also came into Halali waterhole around the same time. Only in Mahango Game Reserve did we see this species by day, with pairs of birds noted in the scrubby sandveld areas and also flying in to drink at the Giant Baobab in the late afternoon.
Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua
Both times that we came across some flocks (around 20) of this species were during the day. One flock came in to drink at the main Hobatere waterhole during our morning watch from the hide. The other flock whistled low over our heads as we were lion watching in the car at Okaukuejo waterhole in Etosha, this time in the late afternoon.
Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea
An unusual, and very attractive, pigeon of rocky habitat. They were fairly common at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, although most commonly seen in small flocks in flight. Also present at Waterberg, where they were seen high up on the cliffs of the escarpment.
Rock Dove Columba livia
In the guise of the familiar Feral Pigeon, only recorded from the centre of Windhoek.
African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens
The next few species leave plenty grounds for confusion if not seen well, and we were fortunate enough to have all four present on the lawns of Ndhovu Lodge to sort out. In fact this is the only location where we definitely recorded this current species, although it almost certainly was unrecorded in general – there are more exciting birds too look out for along the Okavango River!
Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata
A similar report to the above could be written for this species, larger and pinker than the Mourning Dove, but not something I would like to use as a definitive statement if the bird is only glimpsed in flight. I assume that the locals have these two sorted out! Again only seen well, and definitively, in the grounds of Ndhovu Lodge.
Cape Turtle-dove Streptopelia capicola
Widespread and common throughout our travels, and only requiring a bit more work to identify once we entered the Okavango region and the possibilities multiplied.
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
Widespread and common throughout our travels. One of the ubiquitous sounds of the Namibian bush (and gardens).
Emerald-spotted Wood-dove Turtur
chalcospilos
A pretty little dove that fortunately cannot be confused with any others, and took the Ndhovu Lodge lawn dove list up to five, when we saw a solitary bird feeding quietly in the shade one afternoon.
Namaqua Dove Oena capensis
A very pretty silver dove with black facemask and exceptionally long sharp tail. Seen on only three occasions: one in the scrub surrounding the picnic site at Aus waterhole, one drinking at Halali waterhole (both Etosha) and one in Mahango Game reserve.
Meyer’s Parrot Poicephalus
meyeri
A sturdy parrot that was fairly common in small active flocks that regularly flew across the Okavango River at Ndhovu Lodge. We also had good views of several birds in the treetops at Popa Falls.
Ruppell’s Parrot Poicephalus rueppellii
Very similar to the previous species, but only seen well and definitively in the trees in the dry creek adjacent to Hobatere Lodge. A small flock of parrots in the grounds of Namutoni Lodge in Etosha appeared to also be this species.
Rosy-faced Lovebird Agapornis
roseicollis
A cute little green “parrot” with a distinctive pink face that was familiar site and sound around Erongo Wilderness Lodge, Hobatere Lodge and Waterberg National Park. Typically noted in tight flocks of at least a dozen birds, flying swiftly overhead and shrieking like lorikeets.
Grey Go-away-bird Corythaixoides concolor
A suitably bizarre lourie species that we will always associate with this trip. Although not a pretty bird to look at, this giant grey bird with eccentric crest and lengthy tail was usually seen and heard in small noisy parties. Although not recorded until the grounds of Namutoni camp, they were a feature of all the subsequent locations visited, and were particularly common at Ndhovu and Mahango. The alleged cry of “go-away” masks the fact that this species is capable of a vast array of bizarre nasal noises, none of which are particularly bird-like.
African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis
Very like the European Cuckoo, except that (as promised in the field guide) it looked smarter and brighter in plumage at this time of year, and had a yellow bill. This was not a common species and we only saw it the once, at Halali waterhole (Etosha), where we were able to have prolonged views as it hawked around the waterhole.
Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus
A slender, dark cuckoo, which we only recorded around the Okavango region (although other birders that we met reported them at Namutoni camp while we were there). Seen flying across the river at n’Kwazi and fairly common in Mahango Game Reserve.
Levaillant’s Cuckoo Oxylophus
levaillantii
A large and boldly pied cuckoo with a striking crest. The only sighting of this species was of a pair in Mahango Game Reserve, who posed reasonably well on some acacias by the roadside.
Jacobin Cuckoo Oxylophus
jacobinus
We were pleased to find this species in the garden at Ndhovu, especially as we had originally assumed that it was another Levaillant’s, such is their close resemblance. The smaller and cleaner Jacobin was also seen at Waterberg National Park.
Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
One bird hunting around the scrubby margins of Halali waterhole during our big (and otherwise fairly unproductive) “sit” was a highlight. Strange to see a species in such a setting that I otherwise associate with the electricity wires of southern Iberia.
Diderick Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius
This bird was never sighted, but was suspected to have been heard on several occasions, notably on our last gasp piece of birding at Avis Dam on the way to the airport. Subsequent recordings have confirmed that this is one that “got away”.
Coppery-tailed Coucal Centropus cupreicaudus
A massive coucal, that looked more like a grazing mammal each time that it was seen. The first sighting was in front of n’Kwazi Lodge, but we also had several sightings on the floodplains of Mahango Game Reserve.
White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus
Smaller and streaked than the previous species, this was one of several birds that we only saw in the grounds of Ndhovu Lodge, where it put in a brief appearance in the dense reeds in front of our tent.
Verreaux’s Eagle-owl Bubo lacteus
A huge robust owl that we enjoyed several excellent views of at Hobatere. We had glimpses of one at dusk flying into the large Ana tree opposite the swimming pool, where it then sat as a dusky silhouette. This was presumably the same bird that was spotlighted an hour later, wandering around the sandy fringes of the waterhole. Another bird was seen each night at the turning point of the night drive, perched on an exposed branch of a large tree. The deep grunting call was also heard in the morning at Okaukuejo waterhole, although this bird remained hidden within the foliage of a mature tree by the edge of the waterhole.
Spotted Eagle-owl Bubo africanus
A smaller, but no less impressive eagle-owl, that was flushed in the early morning from the dry creek behind Hobatere Lodge and flew to an exposed rock on the hillside where it was mobbed by a pair of White-tailed Shrikes.
African Wood-owl Strix woodfordii
The grounds of Ndhovu Loge was home to an African Wood-owl, which we saw a couple of times and heard another night. On our first afternoon the Wood-owl was flushed from the tree next to the deck and was subsequently mobbed by a party of Hartlaub’s Babblers and an African Paradise-flycatcher. Later that night we glimpsed the owl dropping briefly onto the lawn as it hawked in the lights of the lodge.
Southern White-faced Scops-owl Ptilopsus granti
We did not actually succeed in seeing this species, but had its call pointed out to us at Hobatere, where it was heard on one of the night drives. Having tuned into the call we heard it again in the grounds of Halali camp in Etosha, but the bird was too deep into the dense undergrowth to be pursued.
Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum
Closely resembling the Eurasian Pygmy Owl, this attractive little owlet was vocal and visible at several locations. One was nesting in the tree outside our hut at Hobatere and the bird was seen in the early morning hunting around the grounds. Its persistent piping whistles were heard even in the middle of the afternoon. An equally noisy bird called in the evening in Namutoni camp in Etosha, and was spotlighted there. At Waterberg a “woodpecker” hole that I staked out in a mature tree turned out to be yet another owlet hole, with the bird again active in the early morning. Also heard at n’Kwazi Lodge.
African Scops-owl Otus senegalensis
Another owl that was heard but not seen. This species gives a monotonous soft call that we heard in the grounds of Waterberg, but we did not have the energy to chase it.
Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus
tristigma
The field guides for Southern Africa have a bewildering range of nightjar species that all look almost unidentifiable in the field. Fortunately their calls are fairly diagnostic, and location helps a fair bit as well. This was the nightjar of the hilly country and was particularly common around Erongo Wilderness Lodge, where it was heard around the huts and seen hawking in the lights above the office (and sitting on the roof). More eerily this species was regularly seen over the distant waterhole visible from the restaurant, where they silently flew in and out of the floodlit area like giant moths. This species was also heard at Waterberg.
Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Caprimulgus rufigena
The most common nightjar in the savannah areas visited. Birds observed at dusk above the Hobatere pool were assumed to be this species, and a specimen captured by the guides on the road during a night drive was confirmed in the hand by Steve, although diagnosis was a bit painful. Nightjars being tossed around by the wind in the lights at Okaukuejo were again probably this species. Those at Halali waterhole were confirmed to be this species by their call, which closely resembled the churring of European Nightjars. Also heard at n’Kwazi Lodge.
Bradfield’s Swift Apus bradfieldi
A mouse-brown swift that closely resembled the Pallid Swift and was seen in small numbers from the vantage point of Hilltop House in Windhoek. A more substantial flock was also seen above Hobatere one morning.
Common Swift Apus
apus
The most commonly seen swift, particularly in the north of the country. Flocks of substantial size were regularly seen above Etosha waterholes, but the most amazing flock (estimated at over 1000 birds) was seen from the deck at Ndhovu Lodge, swirling above the Okavango River.
Little Swift Apus affinis
A small and distinctive swift with a white throat and rump. The commonest swift around Windhoek and Daan Viljoen. We even had one nesting right above our door at Hilltop House, where it periodically shot onto its nest on the rafter at impressive speed. Recorded in numbers above Hobatere, but an absence of records elsewhere may simply have been “swift fatigue”.
African Palm-swift Cypsiurus
pavus
The diagnostic spine tail made this an easily identifiable swift species in this part of the world. Similarly to the last species, this swift was most regularly recorded around Windhoek, with sightings at Avis Dam and Daan Viljoen. Only noted elsewhere at Hobatere, but again this may be simply laziness rather than any indication of absence elsewhere!
Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus
Mousebirds are certainly one of the more unusual genera of southern African birds. Fairly small sociable birds, with extraordinarily long tails, we only came across them in reasonably settled environments. This species was noted around the reception huts of Popa Falls.
White-backed Mousebird Colius
colius
This is the mousebird of Windhoek. As well as having them in the garden of Hilltop House, they were also common in downtown Windhoek, where we saw them flying around the Christus Kirche, trailing their tails like streamers as they flew across the main road.
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle
rudis
Always a joyous species to watch in action, this species was seen at both n’Kwazi and Ndhovu, hovering over the Okavango River. We also enjoyed good close views of one bird perched in the tree next to the Ndhovu deck.
Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata
A jewel of a kingfisher, glimpsed in flight at both n’Kwazi and Ndhovu, flitting along the banks of the Okavango. The intensity of the orange breast made the n’Kwazi bird highly visible despite its diminutive size as it flew along the opposite bank of the river. The Ndhovu bird literally flew from under our feet, which at the time were planted on the deck.
Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis
A noisy pale blue kingfisher, that was resident around Ndhovu Lodge and regularly flew back and forth across the river in front of the lodge. Several of these highly attractive birds were also seen in Mahango Game Reserve, located by their penetrating call.
Striped Kingfisher Halcyon
chelicuti
A relatively small woodland kingfisher that was observed on three occasions on the long afternoon drive along the back roads of Mahango Game Reserve. Smaller and less intensely blue than the previous species.
European Bee-eater Merops
apiaster
One of the first birds of the trip, being seen flying over the scrub at Avis Dam during our brief stop in the midday heat on our way in to Windhoek from the airport. Several bee-eaters flying over Augeigas Dam in Daan Viljoen were also this species. Although we did not see many further north, on our last day in Etosha there were huge numbers of this species in the scrub to the east of Fischer’s Pan..
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops
persicus
Our only sighting of this species was of two birds, at some distance, perched on a bush in the middle of Mahango Game Reserve (which as you will shortly discover was “bee-eater paradise”).
Madagascar Bee-eater Merops superciliosus
After being tipped off about the presence of this olive-coloured bee-eater, and having heard their call earlier in the day, we finally caught up with this species in the hottest part of the afternoon by the swimming pool at Hobatere. Not only did several birds hawk above our sunloungers, but they even generously dropped down to the waterhole and perched on top of a small shrub.
White-fronted Bee-eater Merops
bullockoides
A highly attractive bee-eater with a crimson throat and pied facial markings. The only place we recorded this species was in Mahango Game Reserve, where they were fairly common around the Giant Baobab picnic area, and allowed us to take several close photographs from the car.
Southern Carmine Bee-eater Merops rubicoides
It is very difficult to put into words just how magnificent this bee-eater is. The combination of above average size, stunning pinkish colouration and strikingly long tail are just indicators of the visual feats in store for anyone lucky enough to encounter this species. Again we only recorded this species in Mahango. Our first views were of a steady stream of birds flying in the early morning, singly and in pairs, over the floodplain, presumably departing from a colony somewhere in the vicinity. The next morning at Mahango we had much better views when we found a couple of birds perched high in a dead tree behind Kwetche picnic site. Even on a cloudy day, the plumage of this bird is just magnificent.
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus
This was the most widely recorded bee-eater on our trip, although we only ever saw them in small numbers. A small compact bee-eater with a diagnostic long forked tail, we saw them at Daan Viljoen, Hobatere, Etosha (road to Andoni), Waterberg and even in the garden at Hilltop House.
Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus
A compact lime-and-orange bee-eater, bordering on the “cute”. They were active over the Okavango at n’Kwazi Lodge. At Mahango Game Reserve they were fairly common and surprisingly approachable. The birds in the picnic area at the Giant Baobab could be approached to a distance of about five metres (although they were quick to fly each time the camera got focussed!).
Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus
Another of Southern Africa’s beautiful birds, especially in flight, we enjoyed good close views of this species around the camping area at Daan Viljoen, where it was hawking from the fence posts. Although I am confident that we did see this species fairly commonly during our travels the only other visited site where it was fairly common was Mahango Game Reserve, so it is likely that several of the other sightings were on the road.
European Roller Coracias garrulous
Seen just the once, briefly, in Mahango Game Reserve from the back of Roy’s jeep as we hurtled through the bush.
Purple Roller Coracias naevius
This sounds like it should be an absolutely stunning bird, but given that most sightings are of roadside birds perched on posts or wires, it actually normally looks more like a “Brown Roller”. This was always the most likely candidate for a large squat bird on a roadside post, and was recorded on most journeys. Strangely we recorded this species at very few of the actual sites visited, with Halali camp and Mahango Game Reserve being exceptions.
Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus
This was my favourite roller of the trip, not just because it was another of those species that came to us on the Ndhovu deck, but because it really is an unusual and highly colourful bird that the field guide illustrations paid no justice to. This is a small roller, but also has an unusual profile that almost resembles a frogmouth (potoo). The bright yellow bill and manic cackle completed the experience for me.
Monteiro’s Hornbill Tockus
monteiri
Bee-eaters, rollers,.. we’re on my favourite sections of the field guide at the moment and there will be no respite! The Southern African hornbills were all magnificent entertainers. Monteiro’s is perhaps not the most attractive visually, although it was the largest, but their wild frog-like croaks that escalated in pitch, speed and volume as two birds bowed to one from a prominent perch remain a definitive memory of the wild lands of Erongo Wilderness Lodge (I can still smell the rain as I hear them). This species was also recorded at Hobatere and at Waterberg, where no amount of scrutiny could turn them into Bradfield’s Hornbills, the only expected species that we failed to find.
African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus
The most widely recorded of our hornbills. First glimpsed the roadside on the way to Erongo, we did actually see this species at Erongo as well, particularly well when we came across two birds in the heat of the day, panting for air next to the trunk of a tall acacia. Also seen at Halali waterhole and fairly common in Mahango Game Reserve, where it was the only hornbill species noted. We had an almost tame bird outside our hut at Waterberg, which swooped in and sat in the small tree next to our patio.
Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas
The most comical looking of the hornbills and very much the prototype of the “Zazoo” character in “the Lion King”. An instantly recognisable species due to the diagnostic bill colour that was recorded fairly often from roadside locations as well as in Etosha and at Waterberg. Most memorable at Okaukuejo camp in Etosha, where they were extremely tame around the lawns of the main entrance area.
Red-billed Hornbill Tockus
erythorhynchus
Very similar to the next species and appeared to “take over” in range around Halali camp in Etosha, where we stopped seeing Damaras and only subsequently saw this species. Not recorded at any of our Okavango locations, but was once again a fairly common hornbill as we headed south and was present at Waterberg.
Damara Hornbill Tockus
damarensis
An attractive hornbill with noticeably white face. This species was fairly common on the Erongo Mountains and was a bird table species at Hobatere Lodge, where they came into the garden and scooped up muesli from the wooden feeders next to the patio of the main lodge. Interestingly this species seemed to co-exist with Red-billed Hornbill at Waterberg.
Green Wood-hoopoe Phoeniculus
purpureus
The wood-hoopoes are wonderful birds and we didn’t see them as often as we would have liked. This was the northern species and we only recorded single birds in the grounds of Ndhovu Lodge and in Mahango Game Reserve.
Violet Wood-hoopoe Phoeniculus
damarensis
A stunning bird when seen in good light, which we did on our way out from Hobatere Lodge. In a patch of open woodland close to one of the several creek crossings between the lodge and the main road. Confusion remains about a small group of chuckling birds seen sweeping through the grounds of Halali camp at first light one morning, flying from the lower trunk of one tree to another. They were probably this species, but could also have been the next.
Common Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus cyanomelas
Despite the markedly curved bill, this species closely resembles the two wood-hoopoes, and identification in the field was not as straightforward as I had been expecting. We saw a single scimitarbill flying over the canopy at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Another bird observed from directly below, in a big tree next to Okaukuejo waterhole, was certainly this species from its penetrating whistled call.
African Hoopoe Upupa
africana
At least there is no confusion regarding this classical hoopoe. Although more regularly heard, our best sighting was at Okaukuejo camp, where a Hoopoe was feeding on the lawns around the huts. Recorded elsewhere at Daan Viljoen, Mahango Game Reserve and Waterberg.
Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus
A bit of a brute of a barbet, with chunky bill and gaudy red face and throat. This was another of the colourful garden birds at Ndhovu, where they were particularly fond of the big tree next to the deck and also of dropping down to drink at the small birdbath.
Acacia Pied Barbet Tricholaema leucomelas
Apparently the common barbet of the thornveld. This mid-sized barbet has a notable splash of red on the forecrown, but it is otherwise a pied bird. It was fairly common at both Erongo Wilderness Lodge and Waterberg. We also enjoyed good views in the camping area at Okaukuejo.
Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera
abingoni
There is a lot of wood in northern Namibia, but at one point we wondered if we were going to fail to find any woodpeckers. However we finally saw two flying across the road to the east of Fischer’s Pan in Etosha, and watched them in an acacia through the telescope. Somewhat disappointingly the next woodpecker sighting in Mahango Game Reserve again turned out to be this species.
Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus
A larger bird than the previous species, but superficially of similar plumage (as are almost all the Southern African woodpeckers). We saw two birds in Kwetche picnic site in Mahango Game Reserve, which I watched while Anita patiently tried to find a crocodile in the telescope for a German couple. Another bird was seen at Waterberg.
Eastern Clapper Lark Mirafra fasciolata
Namibian larks are “tough” – no doubt about it. Once we got into lark country (Etosha) it took several days and revised identifications until we began to make significant progress at splitting them apart. In fact we didn’t even see this species for sure, but we did hear its unusual long descending whistle at Andoni waterhole. However try as we could from the restricted position of the car, we just could not locate the origin of the sound amidst the vast barren plains that surrounded us.
Sabota Lark Calendulauda sabota
After a couple of days of confusion, I finally realised that the lark most commonly seen perched on top of a bush uttering a chirpy burst of broken song was in fact this species. “Brown, pale eye-stripe, slightly streaked upper breast” is simply not good enough when faced with pages of them in the field guide. This was one of the commonest and most widely distributed larks in Etosha.
Fawn-coloured Lark Mirafra africanoides
We should have picked this species up in Etosha, and I suspect we did see it on several occasions. However there is a limit to everyone’s patience, and that certainly started to apply to the less keen birding half of the partnership as soon as she suspected that we were stopping to look at a lark. (Lion gnawing on a dead zebra fine, dull brown almost invisible bird hopping through the grass,… umm…) Anyway, the situation was rectified at Mahango Game Reserve where this particularly non-descript pale-breasted lark was definitely present, magnificently dull and lacking field marks of almost any kind (apart from that very observation).
Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra
aricana
No problemo – we nailed this one on first sighting on the sparsely vegetated plains between Okaukuejo and Okondeka. In fact my notebook entry magnificently encapsulates the experience (“Robust lark, beige front, white throat, pale legs, slight crest, scalloped back, dark edge to wings..”). The key words here are “robust” and “crest” as no other lark species in Etosha has this combination. Also recorded in Mahango Game Reserve.
Red-capped Lark Calandrealla cinerea
A very distinctive lark that caused no problems either. This species was common in Etosha and was regularly seen at waterholes in reasonable numbers. Particularly large numbers were seen at Okaukuejo, Goas and Andoni waterholes. A few birds were also seen on the plains a few kilometres inside the entrance of Mahango Game Reserve.
Stark’s Lark Spizocorys starki
Stark’s Lark is the one that had me totally fooled. Almost as soon as we arrived in Etosha we discovered small flocks of larks just south of Okaukuejo, huddled together in patches of shade, gaping in the heat. They were small, scrawny, slightly conical bills and were relatively devoid of field marks except for faint superciliums and possible crests that were only revealed when the wind ruffled their feathers.
Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark Eremopterix
leucotis
Definitely sparrow-like in build and plumage, we only recorded this species at Okaukuejo waterhole shortly after arriving in Etosha. At least this species is totally unmistakeable with its unusual combination of brown back, black breast and large white cheek patch.
Grey-backed Sparrowlark Eremopterix verticalis
Much more common than the previous species. A sizeable flock flew high over the Hobatere waterhole on our early morning walk there, very recognisable in the air. They were also seen at several of the Etosha waterholes, including Okondeka and Andoni, again in fairly large flocks.
Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciata
Walks like a pipit and talks like a pipit into the bargain. This is the sort of species that field guides never prepare you adequately for. It does have a long decurved bill but we never saw this well. Instead we realised that the “small buff-breasted pipits” that we kept seeing on the relatively barren plains on the edge of Etosha Pan were in fact this little lark species.
Red-breasted Swallow Hirundo semirufa
A beautiful large swallow, which we saw a couple of times between Goas waterhole and the edge of Etosha Pan. On each occasion we just had a flash of red as this big dark swallow flew briefly across the road. A very striking bird.
Mosque Swallow Hirundo
senegalensis
Probably even more stunning than the previous species, this huge swallow also has white on the underwing and throat. We were able to observe several Mosque Swallows hawking from a tree in the Giant Baobab picnic area in Mahango, and they really are large swallows. It felt slightly like being in an Alice in Wonderland set, as my eyes had to adjust to the fact that they looked like swallows, but were in fact about 50% bigger than your average swallow species. A small flock were also seen over the Okavango River from our favourite viewing spot in Ndhovu Lodge.
Greater Striped Swallow Hirundo cucullata
A pale swallow from below with a deeply forked tail and pale rump, which was not as obviously orange (when glimpsed) as the field guide suggests. We saw this species at Daan Viljoen and Hobatere only, but may have overlooked it subsequently, especially after Barn Swallows started becoming the abundant species!
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
First noted on the drive from Erongo to Hobatere, when several enormous flocks were observed perched on roadside wires. This was the most common species in Etosha, with large flocks seen throughout the park, notably above Halali waterhole. It was fun to see this species in its “winter” habitat, especially knowing that these (at least in theory) could have been British breeders.
White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis
A pretty little swallow with a red cap that was seen on just one occasion, perched on top of a bush near the Giant Baobab picnic area in Mahango, as we headed back to the lodge with Roy following our afternoon “hoon” around the park.
Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata
Another attractive little swallow that was seen only the once. This time it was early on the trip, being one of the few birds that we saw during the high adrenalin navigation of the Daan Viljoen “game drive”. This bird sat with its back to us on a low branch, its blue wings glistening metallically in the full light of the morning sun.
Banded Martin Riparia
cincta
A noticeably large, brown martin species, a couple of which were seen flying over the floodplain of Mahango Game Reserve on our second morning visit there. Not recorded from any other location.
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Only definitely seen at one location, flying over Okaukuejo waterhole, but there were several other “possible” sightings around other Etosha waterholes.
Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula
A dark martin that was best seen on the rafter above our terrace at Hilltop House, where they were neighbours of the resident Little Swifts. Also seen at other rocky sites that we visited, namely Daan Viljoen, Erongo Wilderness Lodge and Waterberg. In fact this was also one of our first Namibian species, as they were also present around the airport terminal.
Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis
One of the commonest and most widely distributed species of the trip, being seen in most southern environments where there was any form of woodland. The most likely candidate any time a dark bird was observed on the top of a bush! We did not formally record this species at any of the Okavango locations however.
African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus
A bright yellow oriole that was only seen on one occasion, flying through a lush patch of teak woodland that had greened up following a recent thunderstorm at the back of Mahango Game Reserve.
Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus
A more familiar oriole that was also only seen once, this time in a patch of woodland on the edge of Etosha Pan, between Halali and Namutoni. Just as they do in the tall poplars of Western Europe, the birds were easily seen in flight but quick to vanish in the upper canopy of the trees.
Pied Crow Corvus albus
A large and very attractive crow, distinctive by its white breast and collar. We only saw this species in Etosha, where it was a regular at many of the waterholes. In fact at two of the waterholes, Gemsbokvlatje and Rietfontein, the Pied Crows were tame enough to beg from the parked cars. They also have an interesting variant on the classic crow call, more of a “kwork” than a “kwark”. We were big fans of them.
Cape Crow Corvus capensis
A rather boring conventional black crow, unusual amongst other southern African species by its ordinariness. We saw them at a nest by the roadside just south of Etosha and once in Etosha, at Rietfontein waterhole.
Ashy Tit Parus cinerascens
From a western European perspective this is a conventional looking tit species, rather like a pied version of a Great Tit. Recorded at both Daan Viljoen and Waterberg, where they were active in the thick vegetation next to the reception area.
Southern Black Tit Parus
niger
A black bird with white wing flashes seen hopping around the upper branches of a tree close to the Mahango Game reserve floodplain could only have been this species, although it was not seen well.
Carp’s Tit Parus carpi
A darker but otherwise almost identical bird to the previous species, but much more familiar to us as we came across it on several occasions. Fairly common in the sparse scrub around Erongo Wilderness Lodge, present in the thick scrub on the slopes of the hill next to Halali camp, observed at a roadside stop to the east of Etosha (20 kilometres south of Grootfontein) and recorded at Hobatere and Waterberg.
Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii
One small party of this active babbler species was first seen in the trees adjacent to the first floodplain lookout in Mahango Game Reserve, where overall it was common. Quite an attractive species with a colourful red eye and notable arrow splashed white streaks on the upper breast.
Hartlaub’s Babbler Turdoides
hartlaubii
A common species at both of our Okavango Lodge sites. A family group were noisy and active at n’Kwazi Lodge. A similar group lived in the grounds of Ndhovu Lodge and were most notable when they mobbed the resident African Wood-owl.
Bare-cheeked Babbler Turdoides gymnogenys
A pale babbler that was only recorded in the garden of Hobatere Lodge, where a small party were sufficiently tame to come in to the lodge feeding stations and were happy to be photographed there at close range.
Southern Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolour
A beautiful white babbler with black wings and tail. We only saw this species once, in the scrub to the east of Fischer’s Pan in Etosha, where we saw a small group in a dense acacia.
African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans
There was a common bulbul in the south and one in the north. The Red-eyed Bulbul was the southern species, being seen in Windhoek town centre as well as locations such as Erongo Wilderness Lodge and Waterberg.
Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor
The common northern species, present in the “gardens” of n’Kwazi and Ndhovu Lodge, as well as Mahango Game Reserve. Almost identical to the previous species except for having a dark, rather than red, eye.
Terrestrial Brownbulbul Phyllastrephus terrestris
Such was the richness of the bird life in the grounds of Ndhovu Lodge that we were even recording new species on the third morning as we were preparing to leave. This brown unremarkable bulbul was indeed terrestrial, but embarrassingly was present in the understorey of the trees behind our “tent”. We clearly spent too much time on the deck, rather than checking the birds around our bed!
Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris
In what was an otherwise disappointing visit to Popa Falls, this yellow bulbul was fairly common in the tall woodland on the main island in the river. We did not record it anywhere else along the Okavango.
Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichla litsitsirupa
A handsome grey thrush with darkly spotted white breast and yellow legs and bill. Our most prolonged view was of two birds that were working the dry creek bed on the edge of Hobatere Lodge, but we also recorded this species at Waterberg.
Short-toed Rock-thrush Monticola brevipes
A blue-grey rock-thrush with orange breast. We saw one on the rocky slopes during our descent from the ridge on the Daan Viljoen Game Drive. Another bird was seen in similar terrain by the side of the exit road from Hobatere Lodge.
Familiar Chat Cercomela
familiaris
In fact the location that we became most familiar with this bird, which closely resembled a female Black Redstart, was the centre of Windhoek, where they occupied the grass around the Equestrian Stature, opposite Christus Kirche. Also recorded at Waterberg and Avis Dam.
Mountain Wheatear Oenanthe
monticola
A slightly confusing species, nit only because of the variability in the male plumage, but also because the dark female superficially resembles other species present in the region. We saw our first at Augeigas Dam in Daan Viljoen Game Park, but then did not come across them again fro sure until the last day, when we enjoyed very close views of two birds hawking around the rocks at Avis Dam. Glimpses of dark birds on top of the rock faces at Erongo Wilderness Lodge were probably of this species.
Capped Wheatear Oenanthe
pileata
A large and striking wheatear, with dark cap and broad black chest band, which was very much a bird of sparsely vegetated plains. We first saw them on the plains between Okaukuejo and Okondeka, but subsequently saw them several times in similarly habitats around the fringes of Etosha Pan. One bird was also seen in Mahango Game Reserve.
White-browed Robin-chat Cossypha heuglini
Th